trigger help

[giffguns]

New to the forum and flintlock building..I am working on a fusil de chasse and am just wondering how to go about installing the trigger and trigger plate together. I know I need to drill for a pivot  pin but how is the pin held in place?
If anyone can give me a little insight that would be much appreciated...the book I have is not very clear in this area.

any help is all ways welcome.

matt

[Dave B]

Welcome to the forum, Matt

If you are using the trigger plate with the raised  bolster for pinning you only need to cut the pin flush and the wood inlet will keep the pin in place. Some folks like to use spring wire for their cross pin as it is hardened.

[Blacksmoke]

Matt:  Welcome to ALR!     The trigger plate is not attached to the trigger - it is only an inlay that surrounds the trigger.  The trigger pin is held in place by friction because you are going to drill a slightly undersize hole through the stock.  I usually use a piece of a nail that is 3/32" in dia. and case harden it. When the hinge pin is installed you will need to tap in with a small punch because of the undersize hole.  The hole through the trigger should not be undersize -  but the same size as the pin.   Hope that helps,    Hugh Toenjes

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

As Hugh says... friction....and I put a little beeswax on the pin... it will be behind your lockplate on one side and it may or may not go all the way through to come out the sideplate side..or even be hidden behind the sideplate ..depending on the sideplate...  I like to bend the end over to make a small L on the lockplate side and not drill quite all the way through the sideplate side.... that way I can take the lock out, grab the pin with a pair of needlenose pliers and remove it when I want to remove the trigger.... Not sure if they were ever done that way on originals, but it works for me.

[Blacksmoke]

Dr. Tim:   As I have examined  quite a number of old originals over the years -esp. the ones from Europe, I never surprised to see innovations like the one you mention.  Although I've never seen the above mentioned I see no reason that it cannot be Incorporated in ma contemporary piece. I have used the same configuration myself a number of times.     Sometimes I think that we go a little to far with historical accuracy in the traditional replication realm.   NO I do NOT endorse the use of modern powders or in-lines in that arena.        Hugh Toenjes

[giffguns]

Thanks for all the help so far...my trigger plate has the 2 ears on it for the trigger to pivot on...but I guess from all the responses I could cut them off and just pin the trigger in the wood or cut a small pin to put in the trigger and plate while the wood inlet holds the pin from coming out.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

for a fusil I would prefer a trigger pinned in the wood nice and high. My fowler is that way and it is very comfortable for wing shooting.

[Thom]

proper geometry of the trigger plate in relation to the sear should be used. This is covered very clearly in "Recreating The American Longrifle".

Thom