siler vs. durs egg

[stancarlson62]

how does the l&r durs egg lock fair against the siler?

[elk killer]

that would be like comparing a RollsRoyce and a model T
the Siler being the Rolls...

[Shovelbuck]

I have both and must say that they both do their intended job perfectly. Totally different feel to each but I have absolutely no complaints with either.

[straightshooter1]

Just my opinion here. I have both. I like both.
However, in my opinion, the Durs Egg bridle is a bit weak, bends too easily. Have to be careful on the torque of the bridle screws. Also not to crazy about the fly setup on the Durs egg. Have had to replace mine once so far.
To be fair, I haven't had the Durs Egg long, but like it's looks. I've had the Chambers Late Ketland for 6 years and have fired several thousand rounds with it on my flint cross sticks rifle. Broken 2 frizzen springs and one main spring, but have always had 100 % satisifaction when dealing with Jim and Barbie in regards to getting replacement parts.
Again, Just MY OPINION!

[Acer Saccharum]

I have a 'John Bailes', which is similar, and @!*%, it's fast. I have broken a frizzen spring once in a while, but I understand that's the norm with this thoroughbred lock. Keep a spare spring in your kit, one that has been fitted and tuned.

In comparing locks of similar size, one can get into a boondoggle of comparisons. A most important, and oft overlooked, factor is the polishing and fitting of the internals and hardening of the lockplate. A proper job can increase the lock speed tremendously, putting a Siler ahead of an Egg or Manton.

[Dphariss]

how does the l&r durs egg lock fair against the siler?

If you need a Durs Egg then use one. But my experience with the Bailes/Manton is that  the lock may need some work will the Chambers Siler is good to go right out of the box aside from hardening the plate which they leave soft to allow engraving.
The DESIGN of the Bailes/Manton and the Durs Egg are good but the assembly often leaves something to be desired. The Bailes/Manton needs to have the sear nose lengthened and the cock modified to allow the cock to come down to the point that the original design did.
It is an EXCELLENT pistol lock BTW.
It is fast, reliable and transmits little shock to the firearm.
 
Dan

[David Rase]

What you need to be asking yourself is, which lock is correct for the style of gun I will be building.  Both locks will do the job.  Both locks will probably need a little tuning for optimum performance.  It is not that one is a Rolls Royce and one is a Model T.  It is a matter of not putting a Chevy bumber on a Ford truck.
DMR

[whitebear]

I have used both and both make the gun go "bang".  I have contacted both companies in the past and was treated much better by the Chambers family than the folks at L&R.

[northmn]

What you need to be asking yourself is, which lock is correct for the style of gun I will be building.  Both locks will do the job.  Both locks will probably need a little tuning for optimum performance.  It is not that one is a Rolls Royce and one is a Model T.  It is a matter of not putting a Chevy bumber on a Ford truck.
DMR

I have used both L&R and Siler and mostly agree with waht DR has stated.  As I like English styled rifles and shoot left ahnded I have used a lot of L&R locks.  While I have had to replace a couple of frizzen springs in the large "Hawken" lock they have been holding up lately.  I have also seen a few problems with Silers such as weak mainsprings etc, but not many.  My Siler worked just fine with no fusiing once I realized I had to lubricate the frizzen spring.  My Durs Egg worked fine and I had to do a little polishing on the Bailes to get the fly to work, but as others stated, it is very fast.  As stated, Chambers does not make that many left handed locks.

DP

[stancarlson62]

thanks for all the help

[Glenn]

Glad I read this thread first before I started my first build.  I've got a Durs Egg percussion off E-bay a while back and was about to use it as shipped.  I think I'll disassemble it first and polish it up a bit before I put it to work.

[Tom Cooper]

I use L&R locks, they need polishing up for the best service, but I treat every lock that way.

Here is one I bought used for $35, new cock and fitting a frizzen.

Did some polishing, need to fill the old mounting holes, inlet it into a project, case harden, and it is finished.

[rich pierce]

It's about styling as said above.  With the Durs Egg, the position of the cock at rest can place the  edge of the flint in front of the touchhole.  Some suggest that's bad for the flint.  I don't know but it does get blackened there.  I've had one since 1978 and it's fast and sparky.