Author Topic: Super glue snafu  (Read 4647 times)

holzwurm

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Super glue snafu
« on: February 28, 2011, 10:13:30 PM »
I think I may have ruined a good English Walnut stock yesterday. I was repairing a corner of the butt where the Butt plate and toe piece meet. I had a piece of scrap I'd cut from the original stock for the repair piece.  As I tipped the super glue bottle to place one drop of glue to hold the repair piece in place, the bottle shot a lot more than I expected. I was looking at super glue running down both sides of the stock. Now I'm wondering how bad this accident is going to effect the finish? In one spot I sanded the wood until the stream of dry glue was gone, but I'm thinking the glue soaked into the pores and will reject any kind of finish.   :-[

The patch repair is great. I did a pretty good job there.

Suggestions - opinions -  :(

Offline Stophel

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2011, 10:16:58 PM »
Soak the $#@* out of it with acetone.
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Offline Stophel

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2011, 10:36:29 PM »
Of course, you'll have to reglue your piece....
When a reenactor says "They didn't write everything down"   what that really means is: "I'm too lazy to look for documentation."

Offline BrentD

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2011, 11:29:27 PM »
Ah, just leave it! 

I have used superglue to fill many a void and crack, including in English walnut.  It will be fine.  Some even use it as a sealant.  Don't mess it up with a bunch more chemicals. 

Brent

FRJ

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2011, 11:34:50 PM »
I use super glue all the time to seal rattlesnake skins on bows and it hasn't caused me or anyone else that I know of any grief at all.There would probably be a problem staining it but if your just going to finish it in the natural wood color then I would seal  the whole stock and finish it. It will be a super sealer. Frank

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2011, 11:36:40 PM »
Do a test. Put crazy glue on a piece of scrap. Let it cure. Then soak it with acetone as suggested above. Then try staining/finishing the scrap.

Tom
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holzwurm

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2011, 12:05:26 AM »
Soak the $#@* out of it with acetone.

That may be do-able during the finishing. I can paint on acetone over the streak marks if the finish won't take. The glue ran down the edge of the butt plate inlet and another stream ran over both sides. Looks like a trip to big box for a can of acetone.

Thanks all

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2011, 01:09:39 AM »
Protect yourself from acetone...horrible stuff for the human body.
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Offline Kermit

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2011, 01:40:20 AM »
Before resorting to acetone, try the sample technique. I use CA glue all the time to stabilize damaged, spalted, or minor rot spots in wood used for furniture that gets finished bright. Not sure how it might or might not take stain.
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Offline FL-Flintlock

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Re: Super glue snafu
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2011, 04:59:17 PM »
I hope you folks using cyanoacrylate on gunstocks know exactly what you're buying - if it does not contain UV stabilizers, you're in for a rude awakening when it starts breaking down and UV stabilizers are to prevent it from breaking down not to prevent it from yellowing.  The cyanoacrylate itself may be treated to keep it from yellowing but it's affected by the material to which it is applied and yellow-out just like the generic hardware store epoxies.  Best be sure to have a 100% positive moisture seal on the entire stock too because cyanoacrylate does not breath nor give like wood fibers, as the wood expands, it'll can split the untreated wood or pop the cyanoacrylate treated area out like a zit.  Can't tell quality by the retail price either, I see plenty of the generic $1/oz wholesale junk retailing for $9-15/oz.  Don't take this wrong, cyanoacrylate can be very useful stuff but it has limitations and application concerns that must be properly addressed just as when using epoxy, sealers or any other product ... all can be wonderful but the difference comes between the retailer who actually uses the products being sold and those who are only concerned with pushing sales hype for maximum profit.

Holzwurm,
Cyanoacrylate essentially turns to a type of plastic on curing and it will reject most finishes.  If you can scuff it, you can apply dye/paint over it just as with any other non-porous surface but it's not going to take common solvent/oil base or chemically reactive wood stain.  Depending on how deeply it wetted the wood fibers, Acetone may or may not be of much value and chances are you'll have to soak the stock in Acetone for a lenghty period of time to see any real benefit.  If it's real bad, I'd suggest calling around and see if any furniture stripping places have Acetone or other stripping solvents that will dissovle the cured cyanoacrylate - if you can't find any local, it would be worthwhile to ship it if you've already got a lot of work invested into it.
Mark
« Last Edit: March 01, 2011, 05:10:57 PM by FL-Flinter »
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