Flintlock Tuning Questions

[Ray-Vigo]

I shot large Siler percussion to flintlock conversion I did this past weekend and it seemed to work reasonably well. My only concern is that it seems to have a very hard flint strike on the frizzen-- I'm getting some chatter type grooves in the frizzen and it does beat up on the flints a fair bit. I also had an issue where bevel down the flint strikes quite high on the frizzen (maybe 3/4 to 80% of the way up to the top) but bevel down the mechanism sticks where the flint stops part way down the frizzen during the strike. This lock was a pre-built large Siler from Track, and it went off maybe 90% on the first try, with one flash and maybe 2-3 no ignitions in 30-40 shots. What advice do you have for tuning the lock so that it isn't striking so hard, and perhaps on a bit lower position?

[Swampwalker]

Based on your description, the cock jaws may need to be bent down slightly.  Bend the jaws down a little at a time, and try between bends.  Remove the cock and heat to cherry red with a torch to do the bending.  Your flint may also be slightly to long.  Hope this helps.

[wetzel]

If the lock is relatively new, the frizzen might need to be hardened.  I spoke with a lady at Jim Chambers flintlocks and she said an employee they had hadn't been hardening the frizzen properly, they just found this out.  You may need to harden the frizzen, I have what seems like the same problem.

[keweenaw]

I don't know about Track, but not all the assembled Siler locks available from different vendors are assembled by people working for Jim and Barbie Chambers.  Some vendors buy them as kits assemble/have them assembled by their own people.  In any event flint thickness also makes a difference.   I usually pick through quite a few flints to find those of an appropriate thickness for a particular lock.

Tom

[hammer]

Mmmmm.   The edge of the flint should strike the frizzen at a certain angle, somewhere about 28-30 degrees.  It may be that your flint is sticking out too far from the jaws and bashing straight into the frizzen rather than skimming down it.  This would certainly cause ridges in the face and dull and break the edge.   Before contemplating anything else, first set the flint further back in the jaws, you may need to nibble a bit off the back to do this.   Rub some coarse abrasive paper along the length of the face to smooth those ridges.  Then manually lower the cock to see that flint edge catches at a downwards angle and pretty much keeps that angle as it travels down the face.   A bit of trial and error may be needed.  Next test it with some priming. 
Once you have worked out the optimum distance of the edge to the face at half cock, measurer it and make a note for later.  It will also be a good reminder to move the flint forwards as it wears during use.
This is, of course, with bevel up.    A good lock design should provide  best performace with the edge only the thickness of the leather above the bottom jaw.   
 
Flintlocks are fun, aren't they?

Rocks rock.

Peter.

[Jim Kibler]

If you are not very familiar with a flintlock and how a proper one should work, I would suggest finding someone who is.  Trying  to diagnose the problem in a forum such as this is a difficult thing.  If it is not working properly, perhaps you could contact who you purchased it from.  If it is a Chambers product and something is not right, he will surely help you out.

[Blacksmoke]

Ray-Vigo:   First of all wellcome to the forum!    I have been tuning Siler locks ever since I met ol' Bub Siler back in the mid 1970's.   I also am very acquainted with Jim Chambers who has taken over the Siler lock business.   Jim will see you good if you purchased the lock from him.   However there are other suppliers out there who have done their own assembly and tuning of Siler castings.   These folks though well meaning may not have done things right - and thus you have a lock that doesn't spark well or ,sometimes, not at all.     I have run into lots of them!   But the good news is that a Siler can be made to work properly even if it has been "messed with" in appropriately.   If you wish, send the lock to me and I will examine it free of charge.   If it needs lots of attention I will contact you before doing any work on it.  Otherwise I will do a few small adjustments just to make you happy and send it back!     You will have to pay the postage.  E-mail me if you are interested,    Hugh Toenjes

[Dphariss]

I shot large Siler percussion to flintlock conversion I did this past weekend and it seemed to work reasonably well. My only concern is that it seems to have a very hard flint strike on the frizzen-- I'm getting some chatter type grooves in the frizzen and it does beat up on the flints a fair bit. I also had an issue where bevel down the flint strikes quite high on the frizzen (maybe 3/4 to 80% of the way up to the top) but bevel down the mechanism sticks where the flint stops part way down the frizzen during the strike. This lock was a pre-built large Siler from Track, and it went off maybe 90% on the first try, with one flash and maybe 2-3 no ignitions in 30-40 shots. What advice do you have for tuning the lock so that it isn't striking so hard, and perhaps on a bit lower position?

Striking high is not a problem if the lock works OK. In your case the frizzen might be too soft and the flint is hanging up.
Unless the mainspring is weak this is the likely reason.
Alternately... Make sure the tumbler shafts, and the fly and the frizzen pivot screw have a drop of light oil (I use Amsoil 0w30 syn motor oil) and the mainspring nose and the frizzen spring has a drop of oil or light firearms grease where the frizzen toe bears on it. These are high pressure/friction points.
The lock interior requires a very small amount of oil but it still must have some. Excess oil will migrate to the gunstock.

Dan

[JTR]

If you just bought it, and last weekend was the first time you shot it, and it's not working right,
just send it back to TOW if that's where you bought it.

Give them a call and tell them the circumstances, and I'll bet they'll happly refund your money or send you a new lock.
Once you, or someone else messes with it, well, you own it!

John

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

There are several people on here who can seriously tune the lock for you. I have had exceptional luck with locks directly from Jim Chambers and Mike Rowe... literally "off the shelf"!!   I have a small Siler that was assembled/tuned by Walt Cain that is very sweet as well.

Now I have to tell you I have a small Siler modified and tuned by Hugh Toenjes that absolutely sets the standard.... it is going into a pistol in a few months and I can't wait!!  Given his offer, you can't go wrong having him look it over and make any adjustments needed..... Now if you want to consider it a learning piece then I would say have at it.  They aren't hard to replace...except for the $$

[rdillon]

ditto on sending it to Hugh!!!!  Hurry up before you lose out on this kind offer.

Rich