Actually , you don’t need bleach . But it does depend on the effect your wanting .
IMO like Dan stated in the post that was linked to . : you should understand an know what your trying to reproduce .
As such I would recommend that you look at original barrels that are in good condition. You should note that they do not have pitting or an etched look .
Also note that each manufacture had their own finishing levels .
Normally in a range from 3-400 grit polishing .
To achieve this effect on this old CVA .SXS after converting to flint , here is what I did . Items needed
a) liquid cold blue , in this case I used common cheep BC cold blue
b) small section 1 inch X 1 inch carpet scrap “low Napped shag “
c) a tray . For a tray I used a cool whip lid
d) some type of center so you can rotate the barrel evenly
e) latex surgical gloves
Staring out I sanded the barrels down to 300 grit and then de greased them.
Note you want the gloves so as to not impart body oils from your hands onto the barrels after degreasing .
I then taped off the center rib . As the pattern on this rib should not match the pattern angles of the barrels .
Taking the tray I placed an amount of Cold blue in the tray . doesn’t need to be a lot . But it does need to be enough to completely wet the bottom of the lid .
Now setting one barrel between the center I took the carpet scrap an lifted the nap so that it was standing up as much as possible .
Now I carefully dipped the very tips of the nap into the Cold blue . You just want the tips of the nap to touch the bluing solution. You want it to wick into the fibers not become dripping wet .
Now starting at the breech I applied the carpet scrap to the barrel so that again just the tip of the nap touched the barrel . Use a light hand and don’t push down . You just want the tips of the nap to drag across the barrel as its slowly rotated . You will see that the solution has left light wet lines on the barrel .
Now move forward and repeat tell you reach the muzzle . Being sure to re dip the scrap every 3 or 4 passes or as soon as you notice that there isn’t solution being applied to the barrel .
By the time you get to the muzzle , you should be seeing a light pattern forming at the breach.
Now start over at the breech . You don’t have to worry about matching the existing pattern, just get close . What happens is that as you make you second pass the fresh solution will darken the existing lines while graying up the spaces between . As long as you use a light touch the original lines will only get darker and darker .
Once you have one barrel done to your liking , repeat on the other barrel , being sure you start the patern so it runs on the oposing derection . IE wou want the patern of the two barrels , when viewed from above to be a V.
Once both barrels are done , remove the tape from the center rib . tape off the barrels along the center rib and bottom rib and gently degrease , then gently repeat the process for the ribs .
After removing the tap from the barrels use alcohol wipes to clean off any tape residue .
Use a soft towel to lightly buff out any scale that may have formed .
I followed all this up with a real light coat of boiled linseed . Just put it on your fingers and coat the barrel with a light film . Let it set for 10-15 minutes and then wipe the barrels down . The oil will not only darken the pattern but also once dry serve to give alittle more protection .
This first photo is the end product of the finish on the barrel . The second photo is what the barrel looks like today after 8 years of use .
