Author Topic: re attching front dight to browned barrel  (Read 2272 times)

hja4941

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re attching front dight to browned barrel
« on: June 13, 2011, 07:11:45 AM »
My front sigth fell off while sighting it in. I originally soldered it but, obviously not well enough.
 How should I re attach it without ruining the finish, Browned.
As this is my first gun I would appreciate any help I could get.

Offline Dave B

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Re: re attching front dight to browned barrel
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2011, 08:07:14 AM »
Hja4941,
re soldering shouldn't be difficult. I use a copper slug attached to some hot rolled steel and slide this into the barrel having been heated by a propaine torch. it will bring the barrel in the area you need to have good solder flowing and no heat sink from the rest of the barrel. Works like a champ. Here is a post of how I put a sight on a fowler barrel.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9585.msg90440#msg90440

Re tinning the surfaces would be a good Idea but if you have an old soldering copper you can use to shove into tehe barrel to keep the heat on the area while the solder is flowing. The solder will not stick to a browned or blued surface
« Last Edit: June 13, 2011, 08:11:30 AM by Dave B »
Dave Blaisdell

hja4941

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Re: re attching front dight to browned barrel
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2011, 05:18:04 PM »
Thanks for the information Dave. The Heated plug made the job of soldering much easier. I re tinned and soldered the sight this morning, and it went much better than the first time.


Offline Dave B

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Re: re attching front dight to browned barrel
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2011, 04:07:01 AM »
I am glad it worked for you. I have had several jobs where the slodering slug worked wonders. I was told of this technique by Cliff Nole from Idaho who makes very fine rifles of all perswasions. He uses the slugs to regulate the barrels of the double rifles he builds. You can spot break loose your barrels to tweek the point of impact.
Dave Blaisdell