Advice Needed on Redo of Holes in GPR Buttplate

[Mattole]

Thought I would start this as a new topic rather than it have it disappear at the bottom of my previous GPR thread.

I am about to resume work on the Lyman GPR rebuild, and was wondering about a suggestion I received to weld closed and redrill the existing countersunk holes in the buttplate (see photo below). What kind of hole size should I redrill it with, and what size and type of screw should I use?

Welding and redrilling the holes in the buttplate sounds rather precarious, but I would indeed prefer to center the hole in the buttplate rather than have it so asymmetrical, as it is now.

Many thanks, as always.

Kevin

[Clark Badgett]

I'll be honest with you here. It doesn't look bad in it's current location.

[greybeard]

Leave it right where it is.  Much less chance of splitting the toe. I like to relieve the first half of the hole. then drill the rest for the screw and put a gob of paste wax on the screw before instalation.   Twerks for me.  Cheers .  Bob

[alyce-james]

Good afternoon Kevin;  After checking my western style guns (2). I think, after the butt plate has been cut to size, the location of the screw well  be pleasing to your eye. Good luck on your rebuild. Turkeyfooter.   I use a bar of soap to lube the wood screw before installation. Slide the screw over the bar of soap.

[Mattole]

Thank you fellows, you saved me from a labor-intensive and unnecessary task. Now if I can just figure out how to drill the holes correctly - I have tried 4 times and each attempt has resulted in the holes being at not-quite the right angle..

[38_Cal]

You can get a self-centering drill bit, that uses a spring loaded sleeve over that bit to engage into the screw head couontersink in the buttplate.  It's intended for drilling for door hinge screws, better hardware stores should have it.

David

[Acer Saccharum]

For easier screw installation, I made a tap for cutting the threads. Then installation of the real screw requires much less force.

This is a weird screw I used, and turned the tap on the lathe. But you can use a standard BP screw brazed to a shank, then a flat ground on one side to make a cutting edge and room for chips. The harder the wood, the more important it is to tap it. Also the screw close to the toe tends to split, so a pre-tap helps a lot.

[Rasch Chronicles]

Always something new on the forum everyday to learn!

Best regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
Don’t get Snake Bit!!! But if you do…