Pictures of new Nock Lock

[jaeren]

Just looking around Dixon’s and over next to Rice Barrels   Is the table displaying and selling the new Nock Locks. Price is $225.00 they have 25 for sale.

[Mike Brooks]

I've got some guns coming up that would be ideal for that lock.

[Craig Wilcox]

Good looking lock, very clean lines.  Love that little bridle!

[Bob Roller]

Just looking around Dixon’s and over next to Rice Barrels   Is the table displaying and selling the new Nock Locks. Price is $225.00 they have 25 for sale.

Rotate the pictures to proper orientation.That spring and link look too close to the
lower edge of the plate to me.It is good looking and I wish the makers all possible
success with this project.

Bob Roller

[jaeren]

Bob I didn’t have anything to hold the lock level. And it was a little busy around the table. Just saw the post on here and snapped the pics. Added picture of the people who be handling the sales for the locks. He is supposed to have them at the CLA show.  They are supposed to be available at the fall shoot in Indiana. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'm seeing a lot of L & R in the internals.

[hanshi]

I noticed the same thing about the spring.

[Bob Roller]

It is my sincere hope that Liston Rice does NOT have the problems with lack
of quality control from a foundry that caused L&R so much grief years ago anf
that this lock can be on the market without any problems.
Bob Roller

[Ky-Flinter]

Whew!  It was hard to look at those lock pictures sideways.  Was hurting my neck   I fixed it.

-Ron

[Ky-Flinter]

That spring and link look too close to the lower edge of the plate to me.It is good looking and I wish the makers all possible
success with this project.

Bob Roller

Hopefully the spring just looks too close due to the top of the lock being angled toward the camera.

Looks like the frizzen pivots on a pressed in pin.  That's kinda cool.  I hope the sear pivot screw has a proper length shoulder on it.  (pet peeve)

-Ron

[G_T]

I had a couple of these in my hands today, and talked with Mr. Rice about them a fair bit. They are an interesting lock. To me the geometry seems quite good and the quality of the work was also pretty good. When I look at a lock off a table, I'm used to seeing lots of things which need work. At least the ones I looked at here didn't appear to need much work. Hopefully future production runs maintain or even improve the quality.

Yes, the mainspring is close to the bottom edge of the lock. According to Mr. Rice, the original for this lock was the same way and it was intentional. It allowed the use of a relatively small lock on a bit larger barrel if desired, without the barrel interfering with the mainspring. Being close to the edge doesn't bother me. Inletting should be done carefully anyway, IMHO, regardless.

A unique feature was the fly being in the middle of the tumbler's thickness rather than on the edge. I'm not quite sure how that was accomplished... Cycling it slowly and watching the action, it seemed to work very well. And unlike lots of locks, the fly actually appeared to be properly shaped and sized without being so oversized like some locks out there today. Looking forward to disassembly sometime to see how it was done.

The lock seemed pretty quick and well behaved.

It also looked to me like it might look nice if someone wanted to round the tail off for a bit different look.

It's an interesting lock. Nice to see a new option coming out!

Gerald

[Bob Roller]

That spring and link look too close to the lower edge of the plate to me.It is good looking and I wish the makers all possible
success with this project.

Bob Roller

Hopefully the spring just looks too close due to the top of the lock being angled toward the camera.

Looks like the frizzen pivots on a pressed in pin.  That's kinda cool.  I hope the sear pivot screw has a proper length shoulder on it.  (pet peeve)

-Ron

On a lot of my flintlocks I have used a 3/0 tapered pin with the large end against
the barrel of the gun. On the two Durs Egg locks I just finished the link to the
mainspring pivots on a 5/0 taper pin.A number of my locks used this idea in the
past and I thought it would let me use the few of these little pins I have left over.
My sear screws are made with a stub length thread of 4x40 and part of the shank
the sear moves on is buried in the lock plate. That is an idea from W.W.Greener
MANY years ago that I adopted as a quality enhancer.
If I make any more locks of any kind they will be put in the "For Sale"section of
this forum and I will not accept orders and will NOT accept payment until the
lock or trigger is ready to be sent out.There is an adequate supply of nearly anything
needed now to make a long rifle or a long range type as Curtis is proving in his
fine tutorial on an Alex Henry kit.

Bob Roller

[FALout]

Sorry Bob, I’m confused about your use of a tapered pin and how you use it.  Could please clerify?

[Bob Roller]

Sorry Bob, I’m confused about your use of a tapered pin and how you use it.  Could please clerify?

It's not hard to do. I drill the frizzen while it's held to the pan by
going thru the pan arm or bridle,in one side and out the other.
Then I use the taper pin reamer from the BACK side thru bolster
and insert the pin. It's simple and there are a bunch of my flint
locks around (I hope)with this simple idea in use.No threading or
broken taps and a VERY precise pivot pin matching the hole it sets
in.Same idea on the linked tumble.Ream the back of the arm all
the way thru including the link for the mainspring. On BOTH these
applications the large end of the pin is captive,the frizzen pin against
the barrel and the link pin against the lock plate.
A word of caution,the link pin can FALL OUT when the tumbler is
removed and it's tiny and can disappear on a shop floor.
I hope this clarifies my use of this pin in a gun lock.

Bob Roller

[gusd]

Bought one Sat.. Will use on a ultra-light .45
Gus

[Hungry Horse]

I can’t get a good feel for the lock size from the pictures. Some of the parts look like spin offs from the flint Hawken lock.

  Hungry Horse

[bama]

We need a good lock of this size to help relieve the pressure off of the Chamber's late Ketland. This is just a word of caution and not a knock on this lock. I got to use, I believe, a prototype of this lock a few years ago on a project for a friend. In the building process I dissasemble and reassemble a lock several times. The link arm has a specific end that goes in the tumbler stiropes and one into the main spring stiropes. If you put the link arm in upside down you will break the stiropes on the tumbler. This happened to me, fortunately LC was contacted and fixed the lock. This was my error and not a malfunction of the lock. I just did not pay attention the last time I assembled the lock and the first time I cycled the lock it booked one of the tumbler stirope ears. This is a very fast and good sparking lock and I will be on the list of buyers but I will definitely pay more attention during the assembly and dissasembly process. 

[FALout]

Thanks for the clearing that up for me Bob

[Bob Roller]

We need a good lock of this size to help relieve the pressure off of the Chamber's late Ketland. This is just a word of caution and not a knock on this lock. I got to use, I believe, a prototype of this lock a few years ago on a project for a friend. In the building process I dissasemble and reassemble a lock several times. The link arm has a specific end that goes in the tumbler stiropes and one into the main spring stiropes. If you put the link arm in upside down you will break the stiropes on the tumbler. This happened to me, fortunately LC was contacted and fixed the lock. This was my error and not a malfunction of the lock. I just did not pay attention the last time I assembled the lock and the first time I cycled the lock it booked one of the tumbler stirope ears. This is a very fast and good sparking lock and I will be on the list of buyers but I will definitely pay more attention during the assembly and dissasembly process. 

Bama is right about the double ended linkage to tumbler and mainspring.I made one for
an original Rigby years ago when the owner installed it upside down or backward.I didn't
copy that idea on my Stanton copies and prefer the screw or the taper pin.I have seen
fine original locks with a screw holding the link but the taper pin is a modern idea and I
may or may not be the first to use it and it makes no difference to me.
The double ended link is a pain and eats way too much time.

Bob Roller

[smart dog]

Hi,
I examined the lock at Dixon's and bought one.  It will be a good lock, however, I will work mine over. The first thing I will do is anneal the mainspring, heat the bend red hot and and hammer it to squeeze it tighter.  Then, I will heat the lower leaf in the middle and bend it down in a slight arc.  Then I will harden and temper.  As it is sold, the lower leaf of the mainspring bends upward in the middle at full cock, when it should be perfectly straight.That means the middle of the lower leaf is doing all the work rather than the whole spring. The rest of the lock seems very good and will be fine after polishing. In contrast, the new lock by Chris Laubach needs no work at all.

dave