Cutting out a Pistol Stock Blank by Hand

[Rasch Chronicles]

Hello everyone!

Ok, I just won a piece of curly maple on eBay 2" thick 7"in depth, and 42" in length. The grain is straight and with modest curl.  Originally I bought it so I could rip some hawk handles for the hawks heads I bought for Bubby's birthday. But I got to thinking that there would be more than enough to cut out a pistol blank or two to bring back with me.

I don't have a bandsaw, but I do have all sorts of handsaws, and more hand tools than is safe for me to have.

What I would like to know is how should one go about cutting the plank up for a stock or two?

And no funny stuff like hacking it out with an axe!

Thanks guys!

Best regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
Mama Domicenti’s Kitchen: Albert Tries Market Hunting
ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!

[Dave Waters]

Al, you might try a large bow saw or make one. We had one when I was a kid 60+ years ago. I think a piece of band saw blade with a cross pin in each end and a wood "H" frame with a turnbuckle to put tension on the blade would work. (I myself have always improvised in such moments of need.)

Dave

[Dave B]

Albert,
I know some guys use a saber saw for profiling out a stock blank. It takes a while but does the job. I suppose a reciprocal saw would work as well. I have seen guys use a bow saw to cut out a profile to great effect. You would be amazed at how fast you can make a sharp one of those do a job if a couple of teenage boys are put to work on it when some girls walk by. Of course they may wander off the mark a bit if your not there to keep on line.  I found and old frame saw (bow saw) at a antiques shop. I got it for my period gunsmith persona and have yet to try to profile any thing just yet. The saw has about a 15" blade so it may be a little small for the work but it shure is sharp and a couple of the tasks I have put it to work on it has performed well. I want to say I picked it up for only $30-40 bucks.

[Glenn]

Just to add my 2-cents to the list of ideas ... Don't forget about a coping saw for fine line cuts and curves.  May not be very good for the bigger cuts but I know when I go to do mine I'm going to have my coping saw right there with a couple good USA-made blades.

I agree that a manageable bow saw would be good.  Gotta get the right size though and use some real good quality blades (none of the latest Harbor Freight stuff, Ya know).

[James]

I have used a good hand rip saw, 5 TPI or less, and found the job to be quick for any of your straight cuts if the saw is sharp. I prefer that way.

[Jim Kibler]

If you don't have a good bow or frame saw, just a good sized rip and/or croscut saw will do the job.    Straight cuts are of course no problem.  Outside curves can be roughed in with a series of straight segments.  Inside curves can be created by making a series of stop cuts more or less perpendicular to the line and then busting the waste out with a big gouge.  Clean up by paring with a chisel or gouge or with a big rasp.

[VirginiaSmokepole]

All you really need to make fine rifles is a swiss army knife!

[bgf]

Hand held sabre or jigsaw will do 2", if you have access to one; the blade needs to be on the longer and stiffer side with not too many tpi's for best results; stay outside the line because runout can be an issue, especially if you let it get hot, and work your way through tight bends carefully.  Sometimes a strategically drilled hole works wonders in allowing the blade to cut curves tightly.  Go slow and it should work fine.

You might have enough for a half-stock rifle and a pistol as well, I think!  I assume you are thinking pistols because of size allowance coming home, though.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

A Japanese Silky Straight Ryoba woodworking saw with no kerf does really well. crosscut on one side, rip on the other. it cuts on the pull. Allows very close clean cuts. Then go to spoke shaves.

I cut my last rifle with 46" barrel from the blank with one of these saws...and I am an old guy!  Look at Amazon  

http://www.amazon.com/Silky-Straight-Woodworking-HIBIKI-396-21/dp/B0014C7YBG
 

[blunderbuss]

 

Now your talking my language, I've done several with nothing but a hand saw and a drill. Use the hand saw for the straight cuts and when you hit a curve drill a series of holes as close together as you can then eather work it out with the drill or use a chisel to break between the holes. I work off large planks from time to time and it's impossible to use my band saw. 

[Mark Elliott]

The very first thing you should do, is lay out the pistols on the wood so that you have an outline to follow.   Then,  I would just use a rip/crosscut saw to rough out the blank.   It is just a pistol, so you only have to get close.   Straight lines will work just fine to start.   It will only take you a few minutes with a #49 pattern makers rasp to shape it up to the lines.    I wouldn't obsess about cutting to the lines except the straight line at the top since you will be inletting the barrel relative to that line.  I would make a careful cut along that top line with a rip saw and then plane or joint it square with the lock side.   Just quickly rough out the rest with straight cuts.    If all this takes you more than 30 minutes, even with a hand saw, you are doing something wrong.   

[Mark Elliott]

Tim,  you are not an "old guy".   You are in better shape than me!

[dannylj]

I second Dr. Tim's suggestion. I picked up a 2 sided Japanese saw at Lowes for less than $20. It has a fine set of teeth on one side and coarse on the other. Cutting on the pull stroke makes for easy straight kerfs. I have used mine for everything from cutting out stocks to under cutting door frames. Albert, maybe your local Kabul Lowes will have one - lol. Be safe.  Danny Jones

[Rasch Chronicles]

Thank you fellows!

I have several of the Japanese style saws, and I have ripped rather long pieces of oak 3X3 very accurately. Drilling holes will allow me to make the curves and not waste too much wood.

I spent a little time looking up pistols, and saving the pictures of the ones that seemed to have what I consider aesthetically pleasing lines. When I get a chance I will blow them up on the printer and adjust the picture to get a monochrome profile. That should get me a close enough pattern to follow.

I have absolutely no artistic skill, and find it very hard (impossible) to free hand an actractive set of lines. But I sure can trace real good though! I really tip my hat to you fellows that have artistic skills. I'm good at the mechanical/science stuff.

I am in fact going to bring a blank back with me along with a set of tools. I think I am going to really learn a lot and really be able to execute a piece worthy of showing you all when I finally get home.

Thanks again fellows!

Best regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles
Make Beef Jerkey at Home!
ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!