Thanks guys. When I get better pictures you will begin to see that my inletting leaves a lot to be desired. I agree on the color, but it certainly looked good on the war clubs! I will probably redo it sometime in the future, but I'm pretty tired of it now. I went through 2 nosecaps before I got this one to fit simply because the flats of the barrel are not stictly octagonal and I kept ruining things trying to file them to fit. The barrel is just slightly over 1 1/8th at the breech and just under 1 1/6th at the muzzle, which is why it had to be bedded. It has had two entry thimbles due to poor pinhole drilling and one of the holes in the stock had to be filled, but it is hard to see since it is in the middle of a stripe. I won't use this entry thimble again because it makes the stock too thick in that area. I learned a lot on this build and not just technical stuff. You have to have determination in order to get things "right" and patience to go back and do it again and again. You also have to recognize that nothing is perfect and accept a point of diminishing returns when you get there. I will never be a craftsman on the order of most of the folks here, but I do feel somewhat validated having finally done something on my own. The next one will be better, I hope. There is much variation among Hawkens. The Rocky Mountain rifle was sort of a formula that individual craftsman mixed differently to their tastes in that shop. I took my barrel key placement from John Johnston's rifle simply because I liked it. There were a lot of different locks and hooked breech set ups, probably based on what was available at the time. The cheek pieces varied too. I just tried to take the most common features of the ones I had seen and mix it with the architecture I liked best.
Roger B.