QUOTE "Not to sure how to go about this, Never refinished a stock or stained one for that matter."
REFINISHING A STOCK 101
1) Remove all metal parts. Pay attention to where each screw comes out, some look the same but could be different threads or length.
2) Strip stock of finish, DO NOT SAND. Buy a comercial stripper, follow directions on can, do it OUTDOORS and WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES. You can also strip it with Laquer Thinner, its cheaper but VERY flamable.
3)De-whisker-- Wet stock with a rag and warm water. The water raises the grain and and you then sand carefully AFTER IT DRIES with fine sand paper (150-180 grit) to remove the raised grain (whiskers). do this until you cannot feel the grain raise when you wet it. Pay attention to stock contour, corners, edges etc. do not change the shape of anything. you will need a sanding block (or two or three of various sizes) and other various paper backers to fit the different contours. To get in to convex places (around lock panels) use sandpaper wrapped around dowel rods. Always sand with the grain and pay attention to STOCK SHAPE, DO NOT REMOVE TOO MUCH WOOD. I like to sand with the buttplate and nose cap on to keep the mating surface square and sharp. These parts will then need to be polished out. Finish stock with a light sanding of about 300 grit. Remove all sanding dust by blowing into mortices and brushing stock briskly with a large, dry paint brush.
4) Now you need to re-install all metal parts to make sure you didn't remove too much wood somewhere. If something doesn't fit right now is the time to fix it.
5) Remove all parts again and stain with a quality Gunstock stain, they are usually very concentrated and can be thinned with alcohol before useing. Most 'smiths have their own recepies and mix different colors or apply different colors to get the curl to show to its best advantage. I would just start with a walnut stain mixed 50/50 with alcohol in a seperate container. If its too light for you then mix it heavier till you get the color you want. It will be closest to finished color when it is wet. Laurel Mountain Forge is a good brand to start with.
6) Finish---This is the most controversial step as most 'smiths have their own "pet" recepie that they swear by. Since you said this is a hunting gun I will tell you what I would do. I would liberaly soak the stock with Thompsons Water Seal, pour it down the ramrod hole, lock mortice, in barrel channel etc., just drench all areas with it, let it soak in for 15 minutes , then wipe it dry. Let it set 24 hours and do it again. let it set for 24 hours. Mix TWS with Formbys satin finish 50/50 and with a small brush coat inside lock mortice, barrel channel etc, and paint a light coat on entire stock and hand rub it in till it dries. let it set 24 hours and do it again. Finally hand rub a coat of pure Formbys on to exposed stock surfaces, let it set 24 hours and do it again.... let it set 24 hours. I have given stocks as little as two and many as eight "final" finishes,.
7) Re-assemble entire gun....You're DONE!!!!!
