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Author Topic: making AF  (Read 3780 times)

caliber45

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making AF
« on: October 13, 2011, 05:12:29 PM »
Hey, guys -- After having trouble finding (and affording) Aqua Fortis, I decided to buy ferric nitrate (only $21 and change for a pound!) and make some of my own. Are there other ingredients besides ferric nitrate and distilled water? I've been told to use 1 part chemical, three parts water. Is this right? Tks! -- paulallen, tucson az
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: making AF
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2011, 05:18:16 PM »
Quote from: caliber45 on October 13, 2011, 05:12:29 PM
Hey, guys -- After having trouble finding (and affording) Aqua Fortis, I decided to buy ferric nitrate (only $21 and change for a pound!) and make some of my own. Are there other ingredients besides ferric nitrate and distilled water? I've been told to use 1 part chemical, three parts water. Is this right? Tks! -- paulallen, tucson az

Try the mix. Put on two wet coats and allow to air dry then see how the color looks after its reacted.
If the color looks week add some more FN to the mix.

Dan
« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 05:18:55 PM by Dphariss »
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Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: making AF
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2011, 07:35:33 PM »
You can also mix the FN with denatured alcohol.... non-grain raising stain  :o ;D
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Offline James

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Re: making AF
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2011, 08:33:47 PM »
This would still need to be heated and then neutralized, right?
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Black Hand

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Re: making AF
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2011, 10:52:27 PM »
Heated- Yes
Neutralized - Probably not, as all you have is FN without an excess of acid in solution.
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Offline flintriflesmith

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Re: making AF
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2011, 12:07:05 AM »
I've never seen the need for using non-grain raising stain on gunstocks because I have already taken the stock thought cycles of "whiskering" (raising the grain and scraping off the crushed fibers that pop up) before it is stained. If I didn't do that the grain will raise anyway a few years down the road. I believe this will happen no matter what finish you use, short of epoxy resin. The testing that John Bivins and Richard Shriver (Sp?) did in the 1960s as they developed their Permaline stock finish. IIRC Richard was a paint and finish chemist.

For the same reason-- I do not wait for the iron acid solution to dry before heating it to convert the ferric nitrate to ferrous nitrate. I like heating the wet sock because I'm a lot less likely to shinge a corner if the inletting or fine detail in carving.

When I tried the ferric nitrate solution I treated it just like I'd been treating the acid.
Gary
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Meteorman

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Re: making AF
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2011, 01:08:37 AM »
I currently use 2 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part FeNO3 crystals.
I do 2 coats, heating after each, followed lastly by a wipe down with ammonia-damp rag.
Does alcohol yield benefits over water with respect to grain raising ?  dunno, haven't done any side-by side comparisons,  but the final results are just as good with denatured EtOH and I figured it can't hurt.
I have heat blushed both wet and dry, and I also recommend the wet for just the reason Gary mentioned above.
I learned the hard way.
Mike M

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caliber45

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Re: making AF
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2011, 02:53:08 AM »
Thanks much, guys! I appreciate it. Will give the denatured/ferric nitrate mix a try. Heating while still wet. Two coats, heat after each. Will let you know how it works! -- paulallen, tucson az
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