Author Topic: What wood would  (Read 14339 times)

Offline Dphariss

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #25 on: October 26, 2011, 06:30:19 PM »
obvious back in the day , very little went too waste.
 think walnut would give more board feet per tree
least straighter longer cuts... vs maples.
 
On what do you base the "longer cuts" on?
Back in the day cutting planks was too much work to waste on poor wood. A great deal of timber that would be worth major dollars today was simply burnt since there were no market for it.
My father back before WW-II talks of clearing land in Ark. And working with a cousin to saw large straight oak logs in the pieces small enough to move then their being rolled together and burnt. Logs so large the a 6 ft cross cut was barely long enough to cut them.
So forget the waste thing its irrelevant in the context of the time .
Baseball bats. I suspect that this is the highest stress use of wood.

So far as bats breaking, I admit to being ignorant of MLB having bat problems since I don't recall watching an entire game in my life, I did a little research and found that there is a problem but a considerable part of this is in the selection of the wood itself. Grain flow and hardness. But broken bats has little to do with gunstock woods.
They use maple because it puts more energy on the ball.
I like maple for gunstocks because for my purpose its the best choice for looks, durability, the ability to hold carving and historical correctness. IF its good hard maple.
While there are original rifles and fowlers stocked in a variety of woods curly maple is found everywhere.
In the 19th century, at least after the Civil War more and more guns were stocked in Walnut. Why I could not say unless it was because the breechloaders were invariably stocked in Walnut and it was what people were used to.
It suitability for gunstocks American black walnut rates at least 3rd and perhaps lower.
European Walnut and Hard Maple are both superior and Cherry might be as well but I have no experience with it.
I think walnut was used because it was cheap and plentiful compared to other woods and looks great with nothing more than a coat of oil in most cases.
Dan
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Offline Stophel

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #26 on: October 26, 2011, 06:54:24 PM »
Sugar maple is the best choice for a gunstock, I think.  I do like GOOD quality black walnut, and GOOD quality HARD cherry (which I have found is rarer than good walnut).  Red maple can sometimes be good, but I have to have it in my hands before I buy.  I have learned long ago to avoid anything called "soft maple" like the plague.

Ash is super neat stuff.  Hard, STRONG, and amazing stuff to cut.  I can cut ash against the grain CLEANLY.  It's awesome.  It does NOT want to split or splinter in places and directions where walnut or cherry would pop right off, and even sugar maple would make a mess.  At the breech end of the barrel inlet, where you have to cut towards the back, into the grain, I often make sort of a mess....  This ash stocked pistol I'm working on has the neatest barrel inlet I have ever done!!!  It cuts against the grain as cleanly as it cuts with the grain.

It does want to crack along with the porous grain layers (there's just not much wood there) and shaping and finishing requires care to cross over the porous rings so the surface doesn't dip down.

I have started working on a pistol using a piece of ash.  My first real experience with it.  Did I mention how nicely it cuts?  ;D  I have practiced just a little bit carving on it, and it carves nicely too.  The porous rings don't cause any problems, I don't think, other than visually interrupting the carving (get the grain filled, and that should go away).  I did pop the wood at the nose end on my pistol.  The barrel tenon is right in front of the ramrod pipe tenon, and there's only a short bit of solid wood ahead of this long slot, AND, it just so happened that there was a porous ring running vertically dead center at the front end of the stock, right where the tenons are, and It split.  I glued it back together and then inlet and glued in a strip of walnut going crossways ahead and behind the tenons to hold it together (remembering the Browning Auto 5 fore end..).  That should hold it together fine.
« Last Edit: October 26, 2011, 06:58:46 PM by Stophel »
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Offline rich pierce

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #27 on: October 26, 2011, 07:45:37 PM »
Plain walnut was/is preferred for fast production work of uncarved guns.  It's easy to shape with planes etc.  Few here do that kind of work so prefer hard maple, which carves wonderfully but is much harder to cut.  If you're getting your barrels pre-inletted, ramrod groove done and hole drilled, and maybe even the stock shaped, then how easily a wood works with planes and drawknives and spokeshaves doesn't matter so much.
Andover, Vermont

Offline James Rogers

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #28 on: October 26, 2011, 09:09:02 PM »
Sugar maple is the best choice for a gunstock, I think.  I do like GOOD quality black walnut, and GOOD quality HARD cherry (which I have found is rarer than good walnut).  Red maple can sometimes be good, but I have to have it in my hands before I buy.  I have learned long ago to avoid anything called "soft maple" like the plague.


I have found the above to be true as well. I have a real nice piece of red here now.

My favorite is dense English walnut as it works well for me and I am addicted to the smell of it!  ;D

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #29 on: October 27, 2011, 12:11:38 AM »
There is nothing that takes carving details nicer than English/European walnut. Cuts like sugar candy. See photo. Yummy stuff.

The same carving below could be accomplished in hard maple, but it's a little harder to cut, and a little more prone to chipping and tear out.

Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

RMHC

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #30 on: October 27, 2011, 01:52:50 PM »
drool .... wipe chin.

One only has to look at a walnut tree to see "LONGER PLANK CUTS".
The timber cut has a lot to do with the equipment they had available.
still think WALNUT WULES

Offline Stophel

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #31 on: October 27, 2011, 05:37:31 PM »
That is sweet carving, Tom.

I have never worked with European walnut as far as stocking a flintlock rifle (the blanks cost a fortune!  ;D  ), only with messing with old Mauser rifle stocks, and it cuts and carves MAGNIFICENTLY.  It is the perfect stock wood.
When a reenactor says "They didn't write everything down"   what that really means is: "I'm too lazy to look for documentation."

Offline Dphariss

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #32 on: October 27, 2011, 05:59:40 PM »
That is sweet carving, Tom.

I have never worked with European walnut as far as stocking a flintlock rifle (the blanks cost a fortune!  ;D  ), only with messing with old Mauser rifle stocks, and it cuts and carves MAGNIFICENTLY.  It is the perfect stock wood.

It is very nice stuff. But I have never relief carved it. Stocked one ML and some breechloaders in the stuff.
I think it smells like horse pee when worked but each to his own nose ;D

Its possible to get relatively plain thin shell walnut that was grown in the US at normal prices. But the really good stuff from Turkey? GASP! (looks and price). I can't imagine what a fancy "marble cake" buttstock piece long enough for a 32" plus fullstock English flintlock would run. But for the right gun for the right clientele....
Maybe a wooden patchbck cover from the same same marble cake.
http://www.turkishwalnut.net/carbine.html
91cm is about 35" long.

But it will still break easily if properly shocked. I had a Sharps stocked in "English" that dropped flat on the floor (was pulled out the the corner it was leaning in) and did the classic break through the rear lock bolt screw just like some original guns I had seen and wondered how it happened. Wonderfully clean break and was an easy fix.
At least I figured out how those sharps sporting rifles got broken wrists that did not look like "horse wreak" breaks... ::)
Dan
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Offline Robby

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #33 on: October 27, 2011, 06:02:19 PM »
I used a piece of English walnut on a recent gun, and was very impressed. I was expecting a black walnut type wood, but it is a real nice, honest wood to work with. Now I want to use it again, sheesh, does it ever stop? ;D
Robby
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Offline b bogart

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #34 on: October 27, 2011, 06:34:37 PM »
Maple, red or sugar. Black walnut seems to really aggrevate my sinuses (allergy?). I've got two more black walnut blanks, after that no more. Unless I can get an IV of benadryl ::)

omark

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #35 on: October 27, 2011, 08:49:55 PM »
if i paid that much for a piece of wood, my wife would have it on the mantle, right below my head!!!    mark

Offline Habu

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #36 on: October 28, 2011, 06:02:11 AM »
Might almost be worth the risk, depends on how good a shot your wife is.  That is a nice piece of wood.

RMHC

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #37 on: October 28, 2011, 04:03:26 PM »
THINK it is safe to say ... walnut has just as many "GRADES" as maple and other woods.
Seen walnut so straight grained n soft it was only good for kindling wood...
get on down into the hidden wood often found underground ... and WOW.
 Where the knife makers get the primo wood for knife scales.
hey ... I think this was/is a decent thread....

mjm46@bellsouth.net

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #38 on: October 28, 2011, 04:44:05 PM »
My personal choice would be nice curly sugar maple. But I can remember seeing a beautiful southern mountain rifle built with CURLY walnut that rivaled any curly maple I've ever seen.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #39 on: October 28, 2011, 07:08:22 PM »
Maple, red or sugar. Black walnut seems to really aggrevate my sinuses (allergy?). I've got two more black walnut blanks, after that no more. Unless I can get an IV of benadryl ::)

Walnut causes a specific lung ailment and maple another I guess so a mask is a good idea when sanding or otherwise producing dust.

Dan
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RMHC

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Re: What wood would
« Reply #40 on: October 29, 2011, 04:06:55 AM »
 good idea to wear a particle mask when doing any sanding of anything ...
cuts down on boogers and lung ailments.
 There is pretty wood to be found in any flavor.