Cleaner / Degreasers

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I've been using Birchwood/Casey Cleaner Degreaser but I think it is somewhat overpriced at $8.00 for a 10 OZ can. Does anyone use brake cleaner spray, and is it as good or similar enough to make it worthwhile?

[Dphariss]

Buy a gallon of acetone or denatured alcohol or a couple of spray cans of starting fluid. Starting fluid cleans well and evaporates almost instantly just spray heavy to get a good run off to wash the part.
Use chemical resistant gloves. The heavy green ones (stripping gloves) work well and most hardware and lumberyards have them. Acetone may melt cheaper gloves if its used.
 Best to use outside. None of the fumes are good for humans SFAIK.

Dan

[smallpatch]

A great degreaser for browning is simply 409 cleaner.  Spray it on, brush to get into the pores, spray once more, and rinse it off.  By the time you get the steel parts to the sweat box, they have already started to rust.

[bgf]

CRC Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner $3.17 a can at Walmart.  Works well, smells suspiciously like some of the gun products I've used .  Lot of acetone in it, maybe some other stuff also, but its labelled for "50" states, so if its safe enough for California, I figure it won't hurt me in Kentucky.  White vinegar is also a great mild degreaser -- I use it on steel parts that haven't ever been oiled before bluing to get off fingerprints, but for old parts, it might not be strong enough.

[WadePatton]

91% Isopropyl is fine too.  I use brake/carb clean, ether, acetone, naptha (lighter fluid), as well.  There's nothing especial about removing oils from metal...well except for the varying residues that might be left behind if doing something extraordinarily "lab-grade" critical. 

Also, ne'er use brake-clean near Argon-sheilded arc-welding.  The heat/argon/brake clean combine to make a deadly nerve gas that nearly killed a buddy of mine.  Minute amounts of brake-cleaner were trapped in the pitting-and reacted so.

[mattdog]

I wash parts in a small bucket of dish soap (Palmalive) and water first, scrubbing the nooks and crannies with a tooth brush to get any traces of grease and blacking compound off.  Then degrease with laquer thinner.  Laquer thinner has acetone in it and I think that is what does the degreasing.  I don't use acetone straight because of the horrid fumes.  I had a bad experience with those fumes years ago that I will never forget.  BTW, acetone is the same stuff that is in airplane gule that "huffers" seek to get high.  Laquer thinner dries fast, doesn't leave a film, a quart can lasts for years, can buy it any hardware store, works good for other things around the shop like removing glue and tape residue.  It's volitile but not as toxic as straight acetone.  It stinks but to me it is better than alcahol or (pew) amonia,I hate that stuff.    

[keweenaw]

I've tried various things including the commercial degreaser used before hot caustic bluing. For cleaning before browning or rust bluing it's hard to beat 409 cleaner - get the original unscented bottle.  For general cleaning of gun parts when cleaning a gun I use acetone.

Tom

[flehto]

If the prep is prior to browning, I wipe off w/ mineral spirits { paint thinner} and then a scrubbing w/ hot water and Dawn.  Using LMF browning, I've found this quite sufficient.....Fred

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I've used some of the suggestions and appreciate all the comments. I'm really interested in the solvents that are non water based because sometimes I use the solvents on the wood to remove inletting black and stains. The B-C Cleaner degreaser is soo darn convenient but way more expensive than these other solutions. Has anyone used the brake cleaner or starting fluid on wood?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I degrease steel prior to browning with Comet and a green Scotchbrite pad.  Flush with hot water, and dry with a paper towel.  Dutch cleanser is no good..leaves a film of some kind that interferes with browning.

[camerl2009]

i use engine degreaser and i do have a bucket of industrial  degreaser for cleaning up milsurps affter i remove the bulk of the cosmoline off

it has worked good on that stuff and i use it when i do bluing

[keweenaw]

You can use acetone, or TCE on the raw wood with no ill effects.  Either will play havoc with some finishes.