Hard to work maple

[FALout]

I'm just venting.  I started this rifle build many years ago, had picked up the parts for Issac Haines rifle for Tip Curtis.  Can't remember what type of maple it's supposed to be, it has great curl throughout but not a tight narrow curl.  As a note, this isn't my first rifle and I do woodworking for a living.  Well, I'm shaping foream right now and it is driving me crazy.  I like to use a scraper I made years ago and it just isn't working, at all.  This piece of maple is harder then any other piece I've used to make a rifle, at least in some spots.  Where it's hard as a rock in some spots, in others it's much softer and can easily tear out.  I've gone to use of files and backed sandpaper for shaping since even using my carving tools has been a challenge.  I'm thinking that this piece is gonna be one of those which will have a rippled look when finished no matter how careful I am in prep before finishing.  Definitely a challenge compared to the last two rifles which were stocked in cherry.  Just venting here since my wife could care less and doesn't really understand.

[rich pierce]

Sometimes scrapers don't work well and you'll have to use rasps and files.  Sounds like you're running into areas of flame type figure where there's lots of end grain at certain spots.

[heinz]

Have you tried using a really sharp plane with a narrow mouth?  That works for me on problem spots where the contour allows it. 

[flehto]

The present Bucks County  stock has the same characteristics as you describe  so I called Tiger hunt and he said it was  an "oyster shell" pattern.  The  lighter colored "hard spots" seem like they have a mineral mixed in, have definite borders  and really don't even file that easily...the softer areas are normal. This  LR is in  final sanding which has to be "backed" and slanted or the "hard spots' will definitely be a lot higher than the softer areas...impossible to scrape this stock. Don't know what the  pattern will  be after staining, so will start w/ scraps.....I'll definitely recognize this type of maple again and would send it back to the supplier.  Stocks shouldn't be this hard to shape and finish....Fred

[Stophel]

I have yet to encounter a piece of wood where some spots were harder and some spots softer.   

[blunderbuss]

I've noticed that the older I get the harder the wood gets Hummm

[b bogart]

In my current build there was two exceptionally hard areas of the wood. One in the forearm area. This caused a problem for me while drilling the ramrod hole. I was making NO progress so I pushed a little bit harder. As the saying goes, That ain't good.



The other area was way right close to the muzzle end behind the cap. Had a heck of a time working it down. Both areas were about 1 1/2"- 2" in length. With my talents and experience (or lack thereof) it made life interesting. Oh well what doesn't kill you makes you stronger ( and say dirty words).

[Acer Saccharum]

That's a perfectly good solution, Bogie, and an attractive one.

[b bogart]

Thanks Tom. I have the stock strategically turned so you can't see the tear stains from all the crying.

[FALout]

Oyster shell sure seems like a perfect discription of this curly maple stock.  I'm lucky that it was a precarve or I'd likey to have done what Bogie had to do, I've had ramrod holes ride up into the barrel channel before, but never out the bottom like Bogie did.  I remember that inletting of the lock and buttplate had been a pain to do, but it wasn't till I started shaping the forend that I really noticed the problem.  I've given up on the scrapers and have been working with files and sandpaper.  I'm wondering how the carvings I had invisioned are gonna work out now.  Like Fred said, I will never forget this type of curly maple and will find a different piece for the next build. 

[flehto]

In a way, I was lucky w/ this "oyster shell"  blank...most of the "hard areas"  were in the upper forestock and the areas that were carved were normal hardness.  The staining is what really concerns me...will the "oyster shell" areas absorb any stain? Might have to go w/ AF on this one....Fred

[Pete G.]

I always seem to run into a harder area in the wrist vicinity. Perhaps a function of the grain being at a little different angle. I have never had good luck with a plane of any type. Almost always pulls out little sections of the curl. Scrapers seem to work better if the blade is held at an angle to the curl.

[Tom Currie]

I've worked some maple that was inconsistant in density. One in poarticuler was hard and brittle on the cheek side which really screwed me up on carving. The wrist has a really unique curl pattern, which looks curl but wasnt worth the greif.

I no longer look for " unique" wood trying to avoid issues. Consistant hard curly maple is now what I look for.