Butt plate screws

[Eric Krewson]

I counter sunk one of the butt plate screw holes on my fowler project a little too wide by not paying attention. A #10 screw goes in a little too deeply and shows the countersink.

I looked locally for any slotted, round head, countersunk #12 screw and came up completely blank. Then I found this place on line:

http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/ 

They have everything, unplated, every size. I bought a lifetime supply for $7, of course shipping was $11. I spent a sizable chunk of change on fuel going to every bolt and screw place in town on what turned out to be a wild goose chase so $11 for shipping didn't sound to bad.

Just a heads up.

[Dphariss]

Pean a #10 head bigger.

Dan

[docone]

I use stone set burs. Once I find my size, I order a few. They are HSS, and can counter sink iron castings as well as brass/German Silver castings.
You can pull the head flush with them.
http://www.fdjtool.com/ProductInfo/19.2E_683.aspx
This is just an example.
They work pretty well.

[bgf]

Pean a #10 head bigger.

Dan

I actually did that with a tang screw, then filed the head slightly domed and cut the slot.  It came out looking more like I wanted anyway, so it was kind of a lucky accident.  The stock screw was domed far too much in that case(in my opinion). 

[Dennis Glazener]

This may not work for you but I have filed down the buttplate thickness around the screw counter sink enough to take care of a slight depth problem. Of course you need to blend it into the rest of the buttplate to make it look right.
Dennis

[JTR]

Thanks Eric,
That looks like a great source!
John

[PIKELAKE]

I have used Mr. Glazener's suggestion more than once. It will work just fine if the plate is thick enough.

[Eric Krewson]

My butt plate is one of those big, thick English fowler types so I have plenty of room to file it down a bit. Great  idea, now why didn't I think of that.

[Acer Saccharum]

If you ever need to move a countersunk hole over a bit, you can take a three flute (with two flutes dulled) or a single flute CSK and chuck it in a brace. rotate the cutting edge only on the side of the hole you want to move over.

[B.Habermehl]

A clisel mark across the side you need also to draw the countersink to will draw the counter sink nicely also. I usually drill a rather small pilot hole first then check the position with calipers for center etc. then I countersink, and finish drill the clearence hole. It's easier to fudge the countersink and pilot hole when they are much smaller than finish size. The clearence drill will follow the countersink for center.