Author Topic: tang thickness? (Read 6188 times)

chuck-ia · « **on:** February 06, 2012, 05:04:02 AM »

I have read and heard people talk about not taking any more wood than necessary from the wrist area, keeping this in mind I misscalculated a bit when inletting the breech plug, tang. I ended up with a tang thickness of about .100", Recreating the American Longrifle states no less than 1/8", I think I have a pretty good barrel, breech plug fit in the wood, maybe a little loose, left the tang about 2-1/4" long, (flared tang). Will I be OK or will I have to solder or weld a shim on the bottom of the tang, and reinlet? This is my 4th gun from a blank and seems I am running into things I have had no problems with before, things should go easier with more experience right? thanks, chuck

Long John · « **Reply #1 on:** February 06, 2012, 05:13:38 AM »

I usually file down the tangs on the barrels I use because they are thicker than I think necessary. I think a tang of 0.100" is plenty.

Bet Regards,

John Cholin

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #2 on:** February 06, 2012, 05:20:44 AM »

I have seen original tangs that taper from 1/4 thick or more right at the plug down to 1/16 thick at the very end. As long as you have enough metal for the screw head, you be in good shape.

FALout · « **Reply #3 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:52:58 PM »

You'll probably be okay on the tang thickness, a little thin. Learn from that, make the next one a better thickness for you to work with. Your statement about the plug fit "maybe a little loose" has me concerned. This is one area that you don't want to have reservations. Safety is important. Before you go any further, make sure your breaching is correct. Is the plug bottoming out on the shoulder inside the barrel? Fixing that now is better then after the lugs and sights are cut in.

chuck-ia · « **Reply #4 on:** February 06, 2012, 03:57:40 PM »

Thanks for the replys, I feel better. Barrel is breeched by Rice, so is a very tight fit. I was refering to the metal to wood fit being a little loose. Thanks, chuck

rich pierce · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2012, 04:54:07 PM »

Just treat it gently if/when you take the barrel out of the stock for cleaning and stand it on the tang and you'll be fine.

Swampwalker · « **Reply #6 on:** February 06, 2012, 07:02:22 PM »

Another option - braze a 1/8 inch piece of steel to the unerside of the tang - it will support the tang and provide extra stiffness, but the repair will be invisible.

Jerry V Lape · « **Reply #7 on:** February 06, 2012, 07:32:40 PM »

I think the two real issues have already been stated. It will be easier to damage that tang when it is out of the stock as when you stand it in a bucket of water to flush the bore? Is it thick enough at the location of the tang bolt to provide sufficient strength there? If not, solder a shim on the bottom as you have already thought about and cut the inlet a little deeper. You are asking because you have doubts. Why not do the easy fix for peace of mind?

Dphariss · « **Reply #8 on:** February 06, 2012, 08:07:28 PM »

Its going to be pretty weak at the tang screw hole, perhaps catastrophically so when out of the stock. I may bend at the screw hole just from tightening the screw.
People like to look to original Kentuckys for guidance in these things not taking into consideration that the average Kentucky was not an especially high quality firearm of its time.
I would prefer 3/16+ where the tang screw passes through the tang. If the barrel is 1 1/4 across the flats it can be thinner and still not bend easily at the screw hole. The long tang Hawkens and the English guns often had somewhat thicker and wider tangs and these are stronger even though the standing breech was never removed from the wood.

Dan

chuck-ia · « **Reply #9 on:** February 06, 2012, 09:32:32 PM »

OK, would it be safe to braze a shim under the tang with it still in the barrel? I hate to take those things out if I don't have to, I doubt it would go back in exactly the same. But if I have to I will. This is a really stupid mistake, I should have known better, still upset with myself. I will think on this a few days. Allthough I will probably feel better with a shim brazed or soldered to the bottom. thanks, chuck

Dphariss · « **Reply #10 on:** February 06, 2012, 10:45:00 PM »

Quote from: chuck-ia on February 06, 2012, 09:32:32 PM

OK, would it be safe to braze a shim under the tang with it still in the barrel? I hate to take those things out if I don't have to, I doubt it would go back in exactly the same. But if I have to I will. This is a really stupid mistake, I should have known better, still upset with myself. I will think on this a few days. Allthough I will probably feel better with a shim brazed or soldered to the bottom. thanks, chuck

Stamp or cut an index line before removing it. Half on the barrel, half on the plug.
Then simply turn back in until the mark(s) match exactly. This makes installation easy.
Lube the threads and contract areas with anti-seize or STP.

Dan

FALout · « **Reply #11 on:** February 07, 2012, 12:27:57 AM »

Your gonna need to pull the breach plug when drilling for vent liner anyway. Good time to check the breaching since the barrel manufactures aren't always perfect. Do as Dan suggested, makes getting the plug back in easier.

chuck-ia · « **Reply #12 on:** February 07, 2012, 02:39:04 AM »

Actually I put the liner in before I put the plug back in. I inletted the barrel with the plug out, put the plug back in, (very tight) lining up the 2 marks on the bottom of the barrel, and inletted, I am just not crazy about taking it back out if I don't have to. This probably isn't that big of a problem, I am going to take a look at it tonight and do some thinking. I guess I have options, braze a piece to the bottom of the tang seems to be the best if I decide the tang is not strong enough, maybe buy another plug, ( I put a plug in a green mountain barrel, probably took me 10 hours)or I could send the barrel to Rice and have them put a plug in. I don't plan on finishing this gun this winter so I have time to decide on what to do. I appreciate all the suggestions on this, thanks again, chuck

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #13 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:34:28 AM »

After reading all this, I think it makes sense to buy another plug, and bend the tang to the curvature of the stock, then re-inlet the tang deeper. After that file the top of the tang down. You'll end up with more tang thickness.

Dave B · « **Reply #14 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:09:27 AM »

I don't think youve made it too thin here are some originals that have fairly slim ends to the tangs

chuck-ia · « **Reply #15 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:24:42 PM »

Thanks for the pictures, allways nice to compare. chuck

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #16 on:** February 07, 2012, 06:35:14 PM »

Those are some good pictues showing the thickness typically encountered in period work. Absolutely nothing wrong with a tang made in this manner. Thanks for sharing this Dave.

Jim

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #17 on:** February 08, 2012, 04:51:17 AM »

Dave B, that second barrel down from the top, it looks to be about 1 3/8 thick at the breech from top to bottom. But looking down from the top view, is it less wide than tall?

I have been wondering about this in regard to European barrels.

Dave B · « **Reply #18 on:** February 08, 2012, 06:35:35 AM »

good Eye Tom, The barrel second down it from a Germanic/American fowler I have and the lock side of the barrel was flattened off to make the lock line up better for the finish shape at the breach area.

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Author Topic: tang thickness? (Read 6188 times)

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