How do you secure your pistol stocks?

[4ster]

I am assembling a pistol with a precarve stock and I am beginning to understand comments I've read here that working on a Pistol is more difficult than a rifle.  The precarve rifle had a "vice-sized" block in the middle that allowed me to position the stock securely in nearly any position.  The pistol stock doesn't have anything like that.

I purchased a versa vice so I can position the work just about any way necessary.  The difficulty I have is in securing the stock in the jaws so it doesn't slip when I get it in position.  I don't want to tighten the jaws too much to avoid crushing the stock.  I installed oak pads in the vice when I got it.  Right now I am padding the stock with a cloth shop towel which isn't working.

Steve

[Dave Dolliver]

The best vise pads I have found were sections of rubber conveyer belt from a gravel pit that one of my friends worked at.  Firm but soft enough to prevent scars.

Dave Dolliver

[Hawken62_flint]

My friends and I all use pieces of leather in the jaws.  A "U" shaped piece of leather fits down between the jaws and holds most stuff securely in place without damaging the wood or metal as is the case.  I am putting together my latest pistol build tonight for delivery tomorrow and I used leather in the vice jaws for everything, including holding the stock in place while shaping.  I have a couple different pieces of varying thickness and swap them in and out.  Good luck and happy building.

[t.caster]

I use various sized leather pieces of cow, moose or elk as needed. I can clamp real tight and not mark or damage the stock.

[Dphariss]

Proper tool for the job.

Buy the blue ones
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12798/Product/SUPER-HOLD-VISE-JAW-PADS




I have a pair I have been using for 30+ years, this grade was green plastic  at that time.
I have a pair of blue ones that are almost a year old and they work fine too.
Can use on wood, finished or not, without fear so long as they are clean.
My old ones have been hit with a belt sanders to refinish a few times. Use them constantly for anything I don't want marred. Small metal parts are their weak point these may pop out..
But they cab be reversed too.


Dan

[Dphariss]

PS
I wash them with alcohol if they get oily.

Dan

[Jim Kibler]

I recently worked on stocking up a relatively long barreled pistol.  I found myself using an adjustable prop, that I use all the time on rifles, at times with the pistol.  I don't have a photo of it, but it's basically just a leather covered piece of wood that is attached to an adjustable pipe stem with a heavy  chunk of steel at the bottom for stability.  It's a tool I wouldn't work without.  Simple and effective.  Actually, a second one would be nice to have as well.

Jim

[smallpatch]

Also realize that you can adjust the "bite" on the versa vise, so that it tightens more on the cam, with less bite on the jaws.  I also use a nice, thick, squishy piece of elk hide to pad the jaws.

[Dphariss]

Thick leather backed with plywood works but it is slicker than the plastic and may require more clamping force for the same security.
Dan

[4ster]

Proper tool for the job.

Buy the blue ones
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12798/Product/SUPER-HOLD-VISE-JAW-PADS

Dan

Following that link, Brownells also sells a set of those pads for their version of a Versa Vice.  Thanks for the tip

I'll see if I can pick up a scrap of leather padding from my local tack shop.  I knew I needed that but not how much.  Thanks for the help guys.

Steve

[Dphariss]

I never used the "for wood" pads from Brownells. A co-worker years ago recommended the green/blue "for metal" and I have never for an instant regretted the price. They one of the most used/best investments in the shop.

Dan

[Jim Kibler]

I've been using just a piece of leather and agree that it can tend to slip at times if your not careful.  I do like the fact that it wraps around the workpiece and covers the bottom as well.  This can help avod dings from the bar of the vise.  A good gripping, hard, rubber-like material that could be wrapped around the stock, might be good.

[Dogshirt]

Saddle skirting cut from the flank area is still thick, but spongy. It isn't good for
much making saddles, not firm enough and almost always gets trown in the scap box. The sponginess may help it to hold better, I've used it to pad C-clamp for gluing, but never in the jaws.

[Ian Pratt]

Something Dave Dodds told me - epoxy a dowel into the bore. After it sets up grab the dowel in the vise and position your work however you need it. When done with all your stock work heat the barrel evenly (a heat gun works fine, don't rush it) and just enough to break the bond and remove the dowel. I'd make sure the bore is clean,and free of any burrs if rifled.   
 

[Ian Pratt]

Just remembered, last time I did this was on a rifled pistol and I omitted the epoxy. Made a tight fitting wood rod with a slight taper in it which I drove into the bore, when done I unbreeched the barrel and knocked it out. Worked fine.   

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Like Dave Dolliver, I have been using pieces of 3/8" thick conveyor belt for many years.  These are cut to fit tightly around the bar of the vise so they stay put.  They are good only for wood for the most part, though I use them to hold hair stylist's scissors for sharpening.  The rubber is soft enough that it does not damage chequering on gun stocks.  I put a wad of shelving rubber on the vise bar under the stock, because  the stock might twist out of the grip and drop onto the vise bar...learned the hard way, of course.