Author Topic: mountain rilfe pics (Read 8560 times)

Meteorman · « **on:** March 05, 2012, 04:23:10 PM »

.50 Rice barrel cut back to about 43".
modified Chambers Siler.
poured nosecap.
my own PB, sideplate and toeplate.
and, of course, a "rough, tough, and sparky" flint from Rich Pierce !
/mike

Smilin' because my neighbor is giving me a hard time about "arming the entire neighborhood".

TMerkley · « **Reply #1 on:** March 05, 2012, 04:28:38 PM »

beautiful!

alyce-james · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2012, 05:31:02 PM »

Mike; I could easily become a lefty so I could take a gun like that (outstanding work) to the monthly shoot here in Texas. Thanks for sharing. Turkeyfooter.

Ted Kramer · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2012, 05:47:53 PM »

Very nice job Mike.

What did you use on the metal parts for the color? The TG looks case hardened. Looks great.

Ted K.

mjm46@bellsouth.net · « **Reply #4 on:** March 05, 2012, 06:25:13 PM »

Very attractive rifle. How did you color the steel parts?

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #5 on:** March 05, 2012, 06:26:59 PM »

That is awesome. Where did you get your buttplate if I may ask?

Coryjoe

Randall Steffy · « **Reply #6 on:** March 05, 2012, 08:20:01 PM »

Mike, You have every right to be proud of that rifle. Beautiful coloring, both metal and wood, nicely constructed and the end result is most pleasing. And those complements from a guy who has preferred Pa. rifles. I guess my tastes are maturing.

hanshi · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2012, 08:53:41 PM »

That is a beautiful rifle; it's what I'd call a "dream rifle".

Meteorman · « **Reply #8 on:** March 06, 2012, 01:39:36 AM »

thanks for the kind words, folks.
buttplate is straight from Track,... I put it in the vice, heated it, and straightened it out just a tad and also eased the heel point a little.

Metal was cold-blued, rusted, rubbed back with Scotchbrite, and repeated about 3 times. then oiled and heated till just smoking.

(I use bleach to expedite the rusting, even tho that seems to be heresy in some camps. I never understood why other chemicals (ferric nitrate, nitric acid, ferric chloride, acetic acid, etc etc) are used regularly, but somehow sodium hypochlorite developed a bad name.....

.)

Curtis · « **Reply #9 on:** March 06, 2012, 02:35:26 AM »

Meteor,

I have noticed a trend with your builds..... each one keeps getting better! Nice looking gun.

Glenn · « **Reply #10 on:** March 06, 2012, 03:04:47 AM »

WOW ... Nice looking rifle. You did an exceptional job to say the least. Very well done.

StevenV · « **Reply #11 on:** March 06, 2012, 05:05:49 AM »

Mike very nice to say the least. Simply straight forward yet very appealing, nice job. And that comes from someone who thinks Reading and Lehighs are the only schools out there. If I might ask what would the trigger pull be? Steve

aflo · « **Reply #12 on:** March 06, 2012, 06:37:17 AM »

Fabulous rifle!
What was the process to get the wood finish?

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #13 on:** March 06, 2012, 07:29:19 AM »

Excellent!! Nicely aged. I like everything about it. Mike you do really nice work..

greybeard · « **Reply #14 on:** March 06, 2012, 10:20:01 PM »

"MOUNTAIN RIFLE"

?

To m eye it looks more like an "UPTOWN RIFLE"??
Very nicely done!!!
Be proud. Bob Reader

K. Moyer · « **Reply #15 on:** March 06, 2012, 10:35:52 PM »

That is one of the nicest rifles I have seen! And the handing is correct! Great work, thanks for showing us. Got any plans on doing a .32 or .36 cal. this way?

bgf · « **Reply #16 on:** March 06, 2012, 11:20:31 PM »

MM,
I like it. The patchbox esp. looks great. I think what you did to the lock improved things considerably, although there seems to be a hint of its heavy Teutonic heritage clinging desparately to it (just like I see in the Chambers "Ketland"). One thing that is really good about it is that you improved the perceived height to length ratio of the lockplate immensely (and the related architecture is thus imporved), and it is strikingly similar to the late flint plates I've seen. Don't take this as negative feedback (which I'm not qualified to give), it is simply observation and curiosity. I am curious how you came to choose that lock and to do those things to it? It shows an eye for detail that you didn't just slap a large Siler on there, and I know how difficult it can be to find "just the right one" when it comes to later flintlocks!

Meteorman · « **Reply #17 on:** March 07, 2012, 01:21:39 AM »

re: lockplate: I certainly can't and won't claim any stroke of genius on my part !
I asked a well known and respected builder of TN rifles (should I give out your name Ken ?

) about the best option for a lefty english-looking lock appropriate for TN-style rifles. Plus I looked at a lot of pictures.
Ken's guidance and the previous examples I found all kinda lead to the same spot.
Yeah I coulda spent more time on the pan and frizzen, and there IS that bridle thing.... but..... it is what it is.
Many many before me have modified a lefty Siler, most probably better than I.
/mike

KLMoors · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2012, 03:05:16 AM »

Looks real nice MM. I don't know anything about mountain rifle architecture but it looks real pretty to my eye. I love the patch box too.

MarkEngraver · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2012, 03:42:43 AM »

I like, I like, I like !

Hope my .36 I am working on comes out as nice.
Patch box looks like a beavertail dagger, cool !

Mark

B Shipman · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2012, 08:52:15 AM »

Yaa, well done.

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Author Topic: mountain rilfe pics (Read 8560 times)

Meteorman

mjm46@bellsouth.net

Meteorman

aflo

greybeard

Meteorman

MarkEngraver