over the wood tang problem

[curly]

I'm working on a build right now that the tang is slightly over the top of the wood, about 1/32" or so. It is a tapered barrel that I had inletted for me. It was my fault as I got a little to aggressive with the band saw. Anyway now I'm looking for a way out of this mess. The flats are tapered, but I'm afraid it would really show up if I tried to draw file flush to the wood. Any one have a solution?

[Tony Clark]

Bend it down.

[curly]

Can't bend it down Tony, its right at the beech. Already have the lock installed, so lowering the barrel too, is also out of the question.

[Bentflint]

How far away is the ramrod hole from the barrel? And, how close to center is the pan to the barrel?

Bruce

[curly]

The ramrod/barrel webb is 3/16" Bruce, and the touch hole is right on. Centered and level with the top of the pan.

[Dan'l 1946]

  I've seen a few old rifles with thin metal plates set in along the upper tang, probably to prevent cap flash from charring the wood. These were all percussion guns, but might be O.K. on a flintlock, too.
              Dan

[The other DWS]

I wonder if, assuming the OD of the barrel and bore relationship is thick enough at the breech, you could not drawfile the top flat and tang down a little bit at the breech end, blending in the height reduction a ways down the barrel toward the sight.

  if done carefully I think that the only thing that would show would be a very slight taper to the top two quarter flats, and it might not really be noticeable. Even if it was a little, with the lock in place it would hardly show on the lock side. On the off side an engraved name or something on the quarter flat would create enough visual distraction to hide it.

[heinz]

Taper the edges of the protruding section to the same angle as the side flats and drop it into the wood an inch or so back. It will look like you intended to do it that way

[James Wilson Everett]

You could glue a beaver tail shaped piece of wood to bring the wood surface up to the proper level.  Then when finishing the area, simply make the tang area carving - either incised or relief - match along the glue line interface.  Then no one will see where it is - and you can keep the secret.

Jim

[Gaeckle]

Take pictures.....commercial tangs have a radius on the bottom of the lug portion........if you remove the radius and shorten the lug, you can bend the tang closer to the mating area of the barrel and the plug....that may allow for some very slight file work.....

[Don Getz]

Jim........good answer to the problem.   I was thinking about the same thing, but your idea is better...........Don

[smshea]

If its really only 1/32.... Id be tempted to file. You might have to reestablish the line of the top obliques where they meet the top flat. Unless Im not understanding the problem.

[The other DWS]

I had thought of a metal skirt/trim around the tang too but it would have to be somehow appropriate for that rifle, whatever its type/style/purpose.  

[curly]

Thanks for all the input guys. Several good options here. There is going to be relief as well as silver wire with floral design, similar to Dave Price's work on the rifle as well, so maybe I could incorporate something into that area to straighten this problem out. What do they say about an once of prevention? It is certainly true!
Thanks again

Curly

[smylee grouch]

Would lowering the barrel and then grinding out the bottom of the pan somewhat to get a little more room to work with work for you?    Smylee

[curly]

Yet another good solution......thanks Smylee

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

you could always age the metal and wood. that would make it look like normal wood shrinkage.

[Jerry V Lape]

I would prefer Jim Wilson's suggestion to put back some wood properly shaped to be integrated into the tang carving.  Actually probably the easiest one to do as well.   Perhaps you will need to plane off a flat surface there first so as to get a good bonding surf.