Trigger Plates

[Eric Smith]

What kind of steel would you use to make trigger plates if you are going to make them yourself? Also, I have an idea of a trigger plate by watching the HH dvd, but what kind of trigger plate is usual on a Berks Co. rifle and what kind is seen on Lancaster rifles? The one I saw HHouse make on his DVD was for a early Virginia rifle. Might not be the same for a classic Haga/Bonewitz rifle or a Dickert/PeterBerry style. Berks and Lancasters are what I am concentrating on for now. If you can post some pictures with dimentions that would be helpfull. Sorry to be such a PITA with my newbie minute details questions all the time. Just trying to learn. Thanks in advance to all who reply.

[Acer Saccharum]

I'm not sure how the school you're asking about did it, but triggers are pretty generic, and this may help when you find the proper construction.

For the trigger plate I use flat steel, with a silver brazed on boss for the screw to pass thru. That tail of the plate is pointed, and is wedged under the wood of the wrist.

The trigger itself is pinned thru the wood. I pin it as close to the pivot of the sear as I can get it to reduce friction.



plate installed:

[Bob Roller]

Remember,he who asks not,gets not and he who gets not will not have. There are no dumb questions,only unasked ones. The combined experiences and knowledge on this forum are stunning and few will deny an answer to anyone who really is looking to learn. I lean toward machine tools while others are good at hand fabricating whatever they need. I am making a Hawken double set trigger of the type seen on pre-1849 rifles and used the milling machine,vertical bandsaw and the screw lathe AND the drill press. This kind of equipment isn't cheap but if taken care of,it will last a lifetime.

Bob Roller

[T*O*F]

That tail of the plate is pointed, and is wedged under the wood of the wrist.

Tom,
Just to clarify your statement as I see it.  It's not pointed, but rather has a reverse draft filed on the tail.  This is to say a normal draft is tapered toward the inside, while in this case it is file to the outside.  Clear as mud??

[Dphariss]

What kind of steel would you use to make trigger plates if you are going to make them yourself? Also, I have an idea of a trigger plate by watching the HH dvd, but what kind of trigger plate is usual on a Berks Co. rifle and what kind is seen on Lancaster rifles? The one I saw HHouse make on his DVD was for a early Virginia rifle. Might not be the same for a classic Haga/Bonewitz rifle or a Dickert/PeterBerry style. Berks and Lancasters are what I am concentrating on for now. If you can post some pictures with dimentions that would be helpfull. Sorry to be such a PITA with my newbie minute details questions all the time. Just trying to learn. Thanks in advance to all who reply.

Part of the reason for this site is to pass on information so ask away.
Mild steel is fine for almost any part of a Kentucky rifle requiring "iron".

Dan

[Acer Saccharum]

Dave, correcto. The tail is chisel shaped. Wedged into the stock wood. I don't dare drive this into place, but let it in with a fine chisel, and keep the mantra going 'do not pry, or thou shalt cry' while chipping the undercut out.

[T*O*F]

Yeah, that's the same way that I do them, but I thought it might be unclear to a newby.

[Bob Roller]

For most muzzle loading rifle/pistol applications,1018 is good and 12L14 can be had in round,square and hexagon shapes and MAYBE flats but I am not sure of that one. Try <Metal Super Market>@ 1-440-942-0756. They are in Northern Ohio and sell in small quantities to guys like us that don't need a ton of something.

Bob Roller

[flehto]

Buy 1/8" X 3/8"X 4' long cold rolled steel from the hardware store. In addition to the tang screw, a small flat head wood screw is used at the rear of the TP. The thickness is reduced to slightly less than  1/16" except the area for the tang screw. Have used hot rolled steel but the clean up is more and it doesn't brown as well. ....Fred

[Pete G.]

I use 1/8" flat bar from Lowe's. Fold over the front 1/2" or so to make a 1/4" thick portion for the tang screw. Cut/grind/file to shape and file the bevel on the rear like the other guys say. I also use the same stuff to forge the trigger.

[Eric Smith]

Thanks for all the replys. I looked over  some fllat 1/8" stock at Lowes, but wasn;t sure it was ok. Now I am. I'll buy a few lengths next time.

[Hungry Horse]

I once saw a trigger plate that was made by folding a piece of about 1/8" strap over long ways, and filing the folded edge to create the trigger slot. The front end of the plate was folded over after the plate was unfolded to expose the new trigger slot, and fagot welded in a forge to give the plate enough thickness to tap the tang bolt threads into. When I saw how this was done with no machine tools, I was hooked.


                             Hungry Horse