Original parts addict

[Dave B]

Hellow My Name is Dave, and I am a old parts addict.  It started when my uncle left an old parts revolver where I could find it and started me down a slippery slope leading me to my current condition. I find my self staying up late looking at auctions of old bits and parts on line. I dig through old yard sale boxes and musty old antique shops compulsively.  My wife has already gone down to the basment to look at the antiques down there while I am still looking though the cabinets for small bits. I have come up with some dandies at times.  Freddy Harrison show me some origninal Bean hardware that he found in a box at a flea market in his ramblings. Man those were made from thin stock. My attempt using sheet iron from the hardware store was a disaster. The attempt after having seen his hardware was much easier. I wil post some photos of some of my finds.

[Acer Saccharum]

Well, Dave, I see you trying to slip in a few posts that don't need any response.

Tom

[Dave B]

Darn,  I was hoping to slip this one by you. LOL I figure by the end of next week I will have enough posts to actually post in the for sale section if I want. Maybe some of my treasures from parts boxes.

[Acer Saccharum]

Wait a minute, if you were really addicted, you'd be hoarding them. I smell a Rat!

Tom

[Dave B]

I have talked allot but havnt followed through very well. I tend to not sell any thing but have been acknoledging the fact that I collect projects and loose interest on some and pick them back up after a break. I started buying original parts because I love to teach about this stuff. Its cool to say this is how they did this look at this detail and this here. I like to pick up an orignial and look at the story its telling you.

[Acer Saccharum]

Dave, I, too, like to see how parts were made. What amazes me is the thinness of many of the original parts I have had the chance to study. I know they were cast thin. But how?

[Dave B]

What I have seen in regards to original parts leads me to believe they had far superior casting techniques than what we normally associate with sand casting. I think they had it down to a fine science approaching closely to what we can achieve with investment casting today. Chiseled Jaeger guards were never made cast as one piece they were assembled as three separate pieces or two minimum. But plates as well were two pieces. The chiseled section was later joined by hammered sheet sections. I have one Jaeger guard I picked up on E-bay that shows this multi part construction clearly.

[Jim Filipski]

Dave,
May we trouble you for a photo of that sectioning? I would love to see how this was done. I thought that may be the case with some of these type parts.
Thanks
Jim

[Dave B]

Jim,
No problem. Actually there is a picture of a trigger guard that has he joint at the front return in the dutch pistol post I did in this section. Ill bring it over.



You will note that there is  a ring of more copper colored metal at the base of the bow this is the solder joint.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Looks like he drilled a hole through the plate and inserted the post from the bow through it and then soldered??

[Jim Filipski]

Ah so structurally the triggerbow remains intact and is secured to the stock while the decorative finial  only need some inletting & looks pretty and doesn't have to bear any real pressure

[Dave B]

That is correct on the drilling, post and braze. I will dig out my Jaeger guard and get a picture posted







You can see a pock mark in the solder joint in the first picture just below the sling swivel hole. The coper solder is harder to see on this one. But notice that the stud for the pin is again Iron. I beleive that the screw goes all the way up to the cross hole for the sling screw.

[Jim Filipski]

Dave,
Thanks These are very interesting. One thing I noticed is the heavy chamfer on the pin hole ( maybe I'm being fooled because of the close detail). I alway put a bit on mine but that looks deep. That pin is going into the "right" place.
Possibly inlet just a bit shy so that the cross pin just finds it's mark and pulls the whole guard up tigher into the stock.(..like when doing a top screw in a butt plate extension; dilling the pilot hole in the wood a little forward the hole in the plate)

great stuff Thanks for sharing
Jim

[Z. Buck]

Wow Guys, thanks for the pictures, that is really interesting, you learn something new everyday, that really makes sense having the final not taking any weight

[Hungry Horse]

Dave you don't need help, you need luggage. Move to California. Everything that starts out nice elsewhere wind up as parts in Calif.

                      Hungry Horse

[Hungry Horse]

Dave your missing out as we speak. I just had someone knock on my door, and ask if i was interested in some old musket parts (rifle parts really). I didn't say DDUUUUHHHH, but was very tempted. I got a good quality Goulcher percussion lock, with half cock, bridle, and fly, and a pretty rough plate. A butt plate from a hog rifle ( hand forged, two piece, very nice) and a set of single phase double triggers that may or may not be antiques. I told him what they were worth, and told him I didn't have that much on me right then. He offered them to me for a third of what they were worth, and I miraculously  found the money.
 The set triggers have a large peppercorn adjustment screw between the triggers, and would require a pretty long trigger bow. There is no threaded hole to anchor them in the stock either. I know some triggers weren't screwed down, but something about these doesn't look as old as the other stuff. Its hard to tell since this stuff went through a house fire. But, didn't get hot enough to damage the springs in the lock' or triggers.

                           Hungry Horse

       

[James]

One thing I noticed is the heavy chamfer on the pin hole ( maybe I'm being fooled because of the close detail). I alway put a bit on mine but that looks deep. That pin is going into the "right" place.
Possibly inlet just a bit shy so that the cross pin just finds it's mark and pulls the whole guard up tigher into the stock.(..like when doing a top screw in a butt plate extension; dilling the pilot hole in the wood a little forward the hole in the plate)

great stuff Thanks for sharing
Jim

 Thanks for bringing this up. Being new to gun building, I hadn't thought of doing that.  I learned long ago to build post and beam that way, just didn't tie the two together.

[Dave B]

here is a set of triggers just as you describe. They dont have screw holes for mounting. They were held in by the trigger guard.

[Hungry Horse]

Dave, those are similar to the ones I have. The spread of the triggers is similar. The adjustment screw on mine is a large completely round headed screw. What makes me think these may be old modern triggers, is the pins that hold the triggers in the plate are still bright, and the adjustment screw is too short to actually adjust the triggers ( a feature I recall from many of the early reproductions). They are very robust in plate width, ( which is offset to work best for right handed shooters) and the internal contact points as well. The front trigger is straight, and when viewed from the front the trigger pad is filed to a peak. I have looked these over several times with magnification and haven't found any obvious mill marks that would definitely point toward  modern manufacture.

                             Hungry Horse