Author Topic: Cutting Plexiglass (Read 9958 times)

Eric Smith · « **on:** May 14, 2012, 05:39:55 PM »

I want to transfer some buttstock profiles from paper to plexiglass. I read a post where someone said it made it easy to lay your pattern out on a blank and see the grain flow. Sounded like a good idea to me. My question is what do you use to cut it with? Not anything I've used so far!

Chris Treichel · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2012, 05:52:06 PM »

Maybe if you get the really thin stuff... like what poster frames have in them... you can get that at most craftstores and you can cut it with an exacto knife.

Interesting idea.

Shovelbuck · « **Reply #2 on:** May 14, 2012, 05:56:19 PM »

I was in the sign industry for about 30 years and cut a bunch of it. Here's what I found worked the best...If you are using a jig saw, lay the plex on top of a piece of 2 inch styrofoam. The dense blue or pink work best. The styrofoam keeps the blade clean and allows for a smooth cut without the plex melting back together. Also, a slower speed and finer toothed blade work better. Other than that, a bandsaw works good.

Gaeckle · « **Reply #3 on:** May 14, 2012, 06:38:59 PM »

Jigsaw, fine toothed blade, slow speed is best.............

Collector · « **Reply #4 on:** May 14, 2012, 07:03:24 PM »

I'm just finishing up a plexiglass job (1/2 inch) and here are my thoughts and advice on the subject:

I'd use 1/2 inch plexiglass - easier to handle, more ridged; hence no warping and/or distortion in layout or clamping to your blank. Were it my project, I'd save space in my shop by drilling a clean hole through the profiles and hanging them vertically, like a good hand saw.

They make specific carbide saw blades to cut acrylic materials. A 10 inch acrylic carbide blade for a table saw will only have 80 teeth. It is not the number of teeth that is critical, rather the angle of the tips doing the cutting. -There is no 'melting.'-

The blades (and the best prices) are available through McMaster-Carr Supply Co. (630-600-3600.) They have a great online catalog, very knowledgeable customer service personnel (how's that for PC,) and ship quickly. From my project notes, their 10 inch carbide blade for acrylic materials is part #6909A27 and is priced at $84.30 plus a nominal shipping charge (typically ~$5.00)

A 4'X8' sheet of 1/2 inch plexiglass runs about $300.00 USD (I had 3 ea. on my project) and there really are no shortcuts at that price point.

Good luck!!

T*O*F · « **Reply #5 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:01:34 PM »

I'd not fool around with the plexiglas. I use 1/4" luann plywood which I sand the edges and give a coat of varnish. The whole see-thru thing for grain orientation is over-rated. You can see how the grain flows in the blank and it is a simple matter to orient your pattern to the flow. And it only costs around $12 for a 4'x8' piece. You can cut it with a bandsaw, sabre saw, scroll saw, or a coping saw. Your only using them to trace an outline.

Lucky R A · « **Reply #6 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:09:50 PM »

I am with T.O.F. on this one. Heck, I recycle pieces paneling thin plywood whatever. The only thing I do different is drill the hole to hang them in the butt stock end----but then Dave is in the southern hemisphere....:>)

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:17:12 PM »

I use masonite, but there are clearly advantages to plexi...you can see the knots and defects, any pencil notes, etc.

Eric Smith · « **Reply #8 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:23:30 PM »

T*O*F and Lucky RA, I am begining to see the light on this one. Think I'll pick up some wood paneling. I dont have a band saw, but my jigsaw sure made a mess of this piece of plexiglass.

tallbear · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:49:53 PM »

Well as a user of plexiglass patterns I guess I should chime in here.The whole purpose of this site is to pass on tips that we find helpful to others.On thing I found helpful in laying out a gun particuarly when I was a new builder was using a pattern out of plexi.This allowed me to quickly see grain structure and defects while doing my layout,no one is suggesting this is the only way just a method I found useful.I use 1/8 " plexi cut with a bandsaw and filed to final shape.It take no longer to make than a plywood pattern and I find it to be more durable.I get my plexi from a local supplier who gives me damaged sheets for free or at a steep discount(check your local supplier).Before condeming a method give it a try you might like it

Mitch

Dphariss · « **Reply #10 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:54:25 PM »

Quote from: E. Smith on May 14, 2012, 05:39:55 PM

I want to transfer some buttstock profiles from paper to plexiglass. I read a post where someone said it made it easy to lay your pattern out on a blank and see the grain flow. Sounded like a good idea to me. My question is what do you use to cut it with? Not anything I've used so far!

I use my band saw.

Dan

James Rogers · « **Reply #11 on:** May 14, 2012, 09:09:35 PM »

I believe John Bivins also advocated the use of plexi to orient grain and bypass knotheads. I use the luann and I usually place the pattern where I think it works best and lightly pencil the wrist area to see if its a go. I certainly would not pass up some plexi patterns.
They are also useful in shotgun patterning.

Lucky R A · « **Reply #12 on:** May 14, 2012, 09:44:58 PM »

Yea, one shot and you have to make another :>) No, I know what you mean.

Eric Smith · « **Reply #13 on:** May 14, 2012, 10:21:59 PM »

Quick trip to Lowes, returned plexiglass, bought Luan paneling. If I had a band saw, I would use plexiglass. Love the idea of seeing the grain while your shifting that pattern around, looking for just the right spot to lay down the lines. But I dont have a band saw and it will be a while before I get one. Paneling will do just fine for now.

Rich · « **Reply #14 on:** May 14, 2012, 10:37:56 PM »

A cheap and really easy alternative is to get some 3M transparency film for copiers. They come 100 8.5x11 inch sheets per box. They can be cut with scissors and hold their shape for transferring the pattern to the stock. Sheets can be taped together for the length you need. You can punch the pattern and keep them in a notebook. If you have a full size photo, you can copy it right onto the transparency.

kutter · « **Reply #15 on:** May 15, 2012, 05:02:54 PM »

Plexi is easier, but a stockmaker I knew had roughout pattern shapes of 1/4" plywood cut in a negative.
Some of the strong 3/16 paneling made now might work well for it.
He left the 'border' around the cut out pattern as small as he thought was necessary for strength for handleing and no more.

The pattern was a window cut into a rectangle of plywood. So you could see the grain layout same as if using a plexiglass pattern.
Slide it around on the face of the blank to place the pattern in the best relationship to the grain just like a plexiglass one.

He wasn't working with L/R's so the patterns weren't as long. But I imagine if they were handled carefully they'd hold up well. Not as if they see alot of rough use,,,and they hang up easily

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #16 on:** May 20, 2012, 03:45:50 AM »

I have whole set of plexiglass patterns I cut out with my bandsaw. I just cut them out if the plexi is thick, and masking tape the thin stuff, and cut right through it. I use a ten tooth per inch blade on my saw, to get a nice smooth cut.

Hungry Horse

Bernard · « **Reply #17 on:** May 30, 2012, 05:03:17 AM »

I have found that if you keep the paper on the plexi it will cut better with a jig saw. cuts even better if you apply a masking tape to the back side as well. Somehow this prevents melting. I don't know why but I know it works.

davec2 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 31, 2012, 07:06:38 PM »

If you have any trouble with melting while cutting Plexiglass or Lexan (sawing, drilling, milling, turning, etc.), just spray the cut and the tool with WD-40, 409, or just plain water in a spray bottle while you are cutting. It will cool the cutting tool and the material and leave a nice smooth cut. I mostly use WD-40 on the band saw and on the lathe just to keep from spraying water on the machine, but I have used all three with very good success and none of the three have any deleterious effect on the Plexiglass.

Eric Smith · « **Reply #19 on:** June 04, 2012, 12:36:34 AM »

Anyone use a scroll saw to cut plexiglass? Will that work OK?

Robby · « **Reply #20 on:** June 04, 2012, 12:54:43 AM »

Yes, same rules apply as Dave has stated, plus hold it down tight.
Robby

Pete G. · « **Reply #21 on:** June 04, 2012, 02:11:20 AM »

I think Dickert & Beck both used a coping saw.

eddillon · « **Reply #22 on:** June 04, 2012, 03:24:00 AM »

I've used Kutter's method for 40 years. The window method blocks out anything than won't be part of the band sawed blank ready for shaping.

I have cut some mighty costly Circassian blanks over that period of time. An example: This was (is) a $600 shotgun blank that will soon be a 1760 Belgian pistol. building from pictures and castings from Ron Scott. Thanks, Ron.
Ed

Bernard · « **Reply #23 on:** June 07, 2012, 06:08:47 AM »

Quote from: davec2 on May 31, 2012, 07:06:38 PM

If you have any trouble with melting while cutting Plexiglass or Lexan (sawing, drilling, milling, turning, etc.), just spray the cut and the tool with WD-40, 409, or just plain water in a spray bottle while you are cutting. It will cool the cutting tool and the material and leave a nice smooth cut. I mostly use WD-40 on the band saw and on the lathe just to keep from spraying water on the machine, but I have used all three with very good success and none of the three have any deleterious effect on the Plexiglass.

Any kind of oil will deteriorate Polycarbonate which I believe is the resin used to make Lexan. Lube on Plexiglass is OK though.

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Author Topic: Cutting Plexiglass (Read 9958 times)

Bernard

eddillon

Bernard