What to build

[sweed]

Howdy all from the Republic of TEXAS. After reading a lot of material, and looking at many tutorials, I realize I have all/most of the skills needed to build a longrifle. After looking at “kit” guns, and part prices, I find I can wind up with a handmade rifle for less than, or close to the price of a kit. Now to my $64,000.00 Question.  What do I want to build.  Having looked at styles and schools I think I know, but…..
Here are the parameters I want/need. I would appreciate the input of some of you expert builders.
14” lop
4” drp. @ heel   
3” drp. @ comb
These measurements come from Stolzer & Son’s work sheet.
I firmly believe in “Form follows Function”  That said, I do like the look of a little brass as opposed to iron. I own many firearms, not one fancy. I tend to break things in use, and this rifle will get used, so I fear the real slender wrists that seem to be the mark. Maybe a long tang with thru bolt to trigger guard would help.  
.45cal 44” swamped barrel Flintlock fullstock.  Am partial to the longer toe on butt plate, but am not married to that.  While I don’t think I will ever bring myself to sell this first rifle, providing it turns out, I want it to be what you folks call PC enough to do so.
Just figured out how to "modify' this post. Was trying to"edit"
Forgot to mention patch box if any on this build.  It would be simple,functional, and hinge at the bottom.
Thanks in advance
Sweed

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

Don't be too concerned with the slender stocks. Those thin wrists are a lot stronger than they look, unless you're planning on recreating scenes from The Alamo and plan on using it as a club to bash heads with. The slender forestocks are really supported by the barrel not the other way round, and the tang is bolted through to the trigger plate on all rifles and the lock is bolted through the stock to the side plate, It's actually very sturdy. Taking this into consideration opens up the entire spectrum of rifle styles to you. Making really big choices like Flintlock or Percussion, and timeframe you want to recreate.

A book is highly recommended by about everyone here, and one book will likely turn into a small library of books. For building sequence and procedures a good one is:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/2/BOOK-RAL
I bought one with my first build and I still refer to it at times.

Hope some of this is helpful and good luck with your build.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

First, welcome to ALR.  You're going to love it here!
Second, your stock dimensions make me wonder where they came from.  A drop at the heel of 4" is a lot, but it's not wrong.  A LOP of 14" is again quite acceptable.  But a drop at the comb of 3"?  You'll be resting your chin on the butt stock.  A drop at the comb of 1 1/2" - 1 5/8" will work just fine.  I'm not familiar with Stolzer and Sons work sheet.
I highly recommend that you make a drawing of the profile of the rifle before you start cutting wood.  First draw the barrel to full scale, even if it's only the first 5" from the breech.  Then mark where your vent will have to be, and position and draw in your lock.  Now it will be obvious where your trigger has to go.  All of this before you start making butt stock profile drawing.  Now you can measure back from the trigger to the centre of the butt plate and get your 14" lop.  Now you can start to sketch in the profile of the butt, creating the wrist, comb, and lower lines of the stock.  You can move the trigger up or down to make the wrist skinny or thicker according to your idea of what it should look like. 
As far as design, there is nothing like studying original rifles, and handling contemporary ones that seem to fit well.  It sounds like you're after a shooter primarily, so handling rifles that fit you will be most useful. 
I doubt you'll find one that has a drop at the comb of 3"!

[sweed]

Thanks Micah for the reassurance about the wrist. I have looked at many old gun photos and have see many of them repaired in this area, so I want to beef up this area as much as possible 'cause if it can be broken in a battle, I'll break it in "normal use" .  I completely agree with my dad who said I was like a bull in a china closet.
Thanks to D. Taylor. That measurement did not make sense to me either. Turns out I was mistaken about how they arrived at it.  I appreciate your input on sequence of events as I have read many different/confusing pieces on this subject. Yours makes sense to me.  I have been a carpenter for 40+ years, so I know to Know before pickin'up a saw! Thanks again, I'm sure you'll hear more from me when I get all these parts laid out on my bench.

P.S. I've been lurkin'round here a while now and I do love it here.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I like the sketch in your moniker...is it a 'true likeness?'

[Acer Saccharum]

I like the sketch in your moniker...is it a 'true likeness?'

Wow, Taylor, I had a heart blip just then...I thought your post said MOTHER instead of Moniker. Quite a beard, ma.

But at closer inspection, with bifocals on, the sentence becomes clear.

And welcome, Sweed!

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Welcome Sweed!! Who did the sketch..... prime gun carving talent there!!

[sweed]

I messed around with a real picture on smart draw photo. Its about 10 years old so yeah I guess it is now a true likeness ! Wish I could do that kind of engraving!

[sweed]

Don't be too concerned with the slender stocks. Those thin wrists are a lot stronger than they look, unless you're planning on recreating scenes from The Alamo and plan on using it as a club to bash heads with. The slender forestocks are really supported by the barrel not the other way round, and the tang is bolted through to the trigger plate on all rifles and the lock is bolted through the stock to the side plate, It's actually very sturdy. Taking this into consideration opens up the entire spectrum of rifle styles to you. Making really big choices like Flintlock or Percussion, and timeframe you want to recreate.

A book is highly recommended by about everyone here, and one book will likely turn into a small library of books. For building sequence and procedures a good one is:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/2/BOOK-RAL
I bought one with my first build and I still refer to it at times.

Hope some of this is helpful and good luck with your build.

Dun red all th'ritin' off them pages. That convinced me to do the build.
Thanks
Sweed

[Pete G.]

Sounds to me what you are looking for is a Southern rifle. Although most used iron mounts, there is no reason you can't use brass. The TOW catalog lists a lot of their hardware in both iron and brass. That said, most of those rifles had iron because the smith built the pieces himself, he didn't buy parts from a foundry. One of the reasons to build your own is to get something that cannot normally be bought.

BTW if you're looking to build your own to save some $$$, it won't work. I've spent more on books and tools that I ever would have spent buying guns. There is always the thought that you can just sell the gun and get your money back, but don't plan on that either. You just end up with less and less storage space. I have a rifle standing in just about every corner and my house is on the verge of leaking rifles.