Author Topic: Domed patchbox lid  (Read 2598 times)

Offline Dan Fruth

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Domed patchbox lid
« on: August 09, 2012, 03:34:30 PM »
I'm planning to build a Peter Neihart rifle and need some advice on making a domed patchbox lid. Does one roll the hinge before or after forming the roll. Also, will a wooden form be sufficient for  creating the dome? Your thoughts would be appreciated.
  Thanks....Dan Fruth
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Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: Domed patchbox lid
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2012, 03:58:38 PM »
Dan,

I make the hinge first and then the dome.  A piece of hard wood will work.  I made a shaper for the want of a better term from a piece of 1" solid brass rod about 4 " long.  I simply tapered/rounded the last 3'8" of the end to avoid a sharp crease. Laid the door on the open jaws of my vice, laid the brass rod on top and proceeded to hit it with my hammer until I had the dome I wanted... It was what I had and it worked fine.  I am sure you will get some much more elegant solutions soon.....  ;D ;D
« Last Edit: August 09, 2012, 05:16:17 PM by Dr. Tim-Boone »
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Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Domed patchbox lid
« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2012, 05:11:00 PM »
Is this is a flat door with a central dome?

Doming may warp the $#@* out of the plate. You may want to dome first, and if you can't roll the hinge, then solder on a separate hinge piece.

End grain Maple works great for male/female forming dies.

Anneal several times during forming. Once, before you start the forming, then just before you go for final squeeze.
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Online D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Domed patchbox lid
« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2012, 06:24:02 PM »
I followed the advise in Buchele's "Creating the American Longrifle" and made a male/female former out of dense maple.  I used 1/16" thick brass, thoroughly annealed, made the hinge first, and then formed the dome.  Worked perfectly.  You simply press the dome in a bench vise.  No hammering needed.
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Offline Dan Fruth

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Re: Domed patchbox lid
« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2012, 06:56:45 PM »
Thanks for your thoughts...I was concerned the brass would distort too much from forming the dome that the hinge would also deform...But the hinges on The Neihart I'm looking to build only has 2 outboard knuckles on the lid. I never thought about using end grain maple for the caul...Sounds like it will work great...Thanks for the advice...Dan...I'll try to take some photos of the job and post them ...Thanks
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