Author Topic: Relief carving. (Read 7567 times)

LehighBrad · « **on:** August 28, 2012, 03:37:12 AM »

After weeks and weeks of not wanting to force myself into my basement during these beautiful sunny summer days, I finally got to start the relief carving on my rifle.

The lock panels and barrel tang area are pretty well finished..just some final scraping here and there. Then it's the nose of the comb next. Hopefully by then I'll have built up enough confidence to tackle the ambitious cheek design I've drawn on it. $:-\$ Any guidance or advice welcome.

LehighBrad · « **Reply #1 on:** August 28, 2012, 03:39:27 AM »

another view.

LehighBrad · « **Reply #2 on:** August 28, 2012, 03:51:00 AM »

What I'm fearing.

Tom Currie · « **Reply #3 on:** August 28, 2012, 03:55:18 AM »

Brad, One thing that stands out to me is that the wood on the side of the barrel tang should taper down rather sharpley at an angle towards the lock and side plate panels. Yours appears flat on top and then sort of squared downward toward the panels. A picture directly at the lock panel would help us in seeing what you have to work with there. If you dont have RCA volumes as reference material you should visit sites such as Eric Kettenburgs or Allen Martins to see examples .

LehighBrad · « **Reply #4 on:** August 28, 2012, 04:06:11 AM »

Yes....I see what you mean Tom. Would it be possible to work the wood down on more of an angle on both sides of the tang now?? I mean, I think I can shave off more wood on each side to taper the top plane off both sides of the tang just in front of the relief carving to try and lessen the flat top appearance. If I work from the top edges of my lock panels towards the tang.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #5 on:** August 28, 2012, 04:27:46 AM »

Your drawing is most excellent!

I completely agree on the big flats spots on either side of the breech. Wow, you gotta taper them down as much as you can to your side panels.

This is not the same style gun, but it conveys what is meant by working down the top of the breech area to a rounded profile. Ignore the little thumbnail scoops up near the barrel.

Don Getz · « **Reply #6 on:** August 28, 2012, 04:47:39 AM »

I hope you are receptive to a few hints. Acer touched on the area immediately behind the breech and along the tang.
Draw a line along the lock inlet, a little over a 1/16" wide. Then take a smooth rasp and make this area flat between
that pencil line and the tang. It also appears that you have the lock a little high so you will not totally get the right look
there. I also think the drawing of your carving behind the cheek piece is a little "busy". Get rid of the "telephone"
down in the toe of your carving. Also check on some old guns for the carving from the nose of the comb down along the
side of the wrist. I built my first gun the same way you are going. I built a copy of a Herman Rupp, what an undertaking.
I should have left it real plain.........Don

LehighBrad · « **Reply #7 on:** August 28, 2012, 05:00:59 AM »

Don....consider the "telephone" gone.

Tommorrows basement session will be to correct the flatness on each side of the tang as best I can with what room I have left to work with. Thanks guys!! I know this rifle will be far from a Martin or a Kettenburg, but thanks to your guidance it'll be a little closer.

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #8 on:** August 28, 2012, 05:02:06 AM »

I don't see a cell phone, Don. Maybe you're speaking about a phone from a different time?

Brad, I hate to say it at this point in your build, but ALL shaping should be done before the carving begins.

To give you credit, you probably did think all shaping was done. But as Don sez, take a rasp to the top of the breech, carving and all, taper that puppy out. It may affect your lock surrounds, but they can be retouched.

You want to leave the tang alone, as cutting into that will cause the whole top profile to change, and there is an inlay on the wrist you don't want to dig into.

I'd really like to see some side shots from the lock side, from the sideplate side. Top down view of the wrist and breech. Top down view of butt-to-breech.

It's VERY hard to critique shape on the web. Photos can be misleading, lighting can wash out the subtle shadowing needed to determine form. Ah, let's do what we can, eh.

Thanks for putting your work up a look-see.

Tom

rich pierce · « **Reply #9 on:** August 28, 2012, 05:33:22 AM »

Your drawing is really great. I'll make one more crazy, late suggestion, to consider shortening the cheekpiece at the rear about 1/4" to 3/8", it might stretch things out more and make things less crowded.

LehighBrad · « **Reply #10 on:** August 30, 2012, 01:13:43 AM »

Well....rounded off the stock as best I could on each side of the barrel tang without cutting too much into my lock panels. It is what it is. I'll probably drop the rifle on a rock after slipping in the snow with my mocs this season anyway!

Cory Joe Stewart · « **Reply #11 on:** August 30, 2012, 01:38:05 AM »

Brad, whatever you do do not go into it with the mindset of "I'm gonna ding it up anyway." There is room there to create the slope they are talking about. You can redraw and recarve no problem. You clearly have a good eye for the design and the carving so no wories there. I think the comb shape is very attractive.

When I was at this point I had to remind myself why I was doing it. Did I want a finsihed rifle or did I want the process. If I wanted a finished rifle I could pay someone else to do it. If I wanted the process (and I think you do) rasp it down and start again on that area.

Coryjoe

rich pierce · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2012, 01:49:24 AM »

Hi, I think if you are still willing to go for it, there's some meat that can be taken off. It's hard to get all the factory gun shapes out of your head but the wood beside the tang can actually be pretty close to 45 degrees sloping on originals. I've highlighted where your stock still looks a little like a rounded square shape. If you take a rasp and file a very slightly rounded flat between the tang side and the lock panel, you'll get rid of the ridge.

Tom Currie · « **Reply #13 on:** August 30, 2012, 03:25:36 AM »

Brad , You got to loose that rounded over thought when addressing the area betwen the tang and the lock and side plate panels.

From Don Getz above " Draw a line along the lock inlet, a little over a 1/16" wide. Then take a smooth rasp and make this area flat between
that pencil line and the tang. "

Don't settle when there's still time for making changes.

Jerry V Lape · « **Reply #14 on:** August 30, 2012, 03:27:07 AM »

This is a photo someone else sent me which helps to see what the guys are talking about on the shape at the tang to side panels. Hope it helps.

LehighBrad · « **Reply #15 on:** August 30, 2012, 03:44:32 AM »

Wow....Tom...now I see! Never realized the area was soooo flat!

Looks like I gotta fire up the rasp some more!! Now lets just hope I can re-carve my tang relief design.

I've had bad luck in the past trying to re-do something that turned out decently for me the first time around!

Couldn't tell that flatness in the photo I have of Smallpatches "Busty Brunette".

LehighBrad · « **Reply #16 on:** August 30, 2012, 03:53:41 AM »

Thanks for the photo reference Jerry!!

Tom Currie · « **Reply #17 on:** August 30, 2012, 04:07:04 AM »

Here's one of mine. Mabye this well help also. It's slightly concave as are some of the other recent pics.

LehighBrad · « **Reply #18 on:** August 30, 2012, 04:10:31 AM »

Awesome....thanks. I'm on the same page as you guys now. I know what I gotta do.

smallpatch · « **Reply #19 on:** August 30, 2012, 04:55:58 AM »

Brad,

While the Brunette may be "Busty", only in the right places. The area between the tang and the lock panels is definitely flat compared to yours. Notice also, how slender the wrist is. Slender, and a rounded diamond shape. Yours still has "corners".

Not jumping on the bandwagon Sir, but you've got a lot of wood to remove.

rich pierce · « **Reply #20 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:27:44 AM »

One more thing to check. In the photo it looks like the tang tas a crook instead of a smooth bend. Probably the best time to fix if necessary.

mike learn · « **Reply #21 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:51:16 AM »

I applaud you for meeting a tough challenge that I have been battling for the first time too. How thick is the back of your tang? Reason I ask is, as mentioned earlier, is that there is room to shape that whole area, including the tang contour, if indeed you do decide to go back into the transition from breech to sides. Love the layout on the cheekside. I look forward to your progress.

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Author Topic: Relief carving. (Read 7567 times)

LehighBrad

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