They definitely make the wrist weaker, but the main problem is the fact that the fall of the hammer drives the forward part of the lock upward in the mortise, if the front lock bolt doesn't pass through a tight hole in the breech plug. Other attempts to counteract the heavy upward thrust upon firing involved a lockplate extension under the drum, or snail, as shown in some of the pictures in previous posts. Many broken antiques are the result of some"gunsmith" taking a back action firearm apart, and opening up the hole in the breech plug to make it easier to get back together.
Back action locks are quite fast, and can produce a heavy hammer fall without making the pressure required to operate a simple trigger oppressive. The advantage is in the length of the mainspring, I suspect.
The L&R lock is a good choice, and if you run on to a Tryon back action lock snatch it up.
While it is not wise, to dry snap any percussion lock, when it is out of the stock, with no nipple to stop the forward motion. Dry snapping a back action lock nearly always causes damage.
Hungry Horse