Pinning barrel wedges

[Jerry V Lape]

First time to use wedges.  Looked through all three of the building manuals I have and there is no discussion of exactly how to pin in any of them.  Noted that Track of the Wolf sells small screw in pins which seem logical in that it would be possible to remove the pin easily if repairs are required in the future but doubt this was the original method.  Could those of you familiar with the pinned wedges provide guidance on pin placement, and any arrangements to accomplish pin removal if required for repairs. 

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I used carpet tacks in one. Am using 1/16 music wire in one I am finishing up now. The barrel keeps them in. When the barrel is out a pair of needle nose pliers will pull them out when repairs might be needed.......

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

There's a bunch of things to think about when using captured slides or keys.  
I use a very small finishing nail, cut to about 1/4" long with side cutters, and predrill a hole just a hair smaller than the nail straight down the vertical face of the barrel channel wall, in line with the slot in the key.  With the key installed, the drill bit can be felt dropping through the slot into the wood below, but be very careful here.  Once the drill bit drops through the slot, I only drill down about 1/16" further, because you must remember, the stock forearm is convex now, and the drill bit will come right through the side if you go too deep.  All that is required is for the nail to enter the wood under the key a tiny bit, to prevent the slide from being pulled all the way out of the forearm, and subsequently, lost.  Likewise, you cannot yard on the slide when you pull it out, or you might tear the slide right out of the wood.  

It is rare to have to remove the slide once it is installed, but if you think you might want to do so in the future, use a small gouge to cut away the wood in a circle, especially on the fore and aft of the pin, so that the head of the nail is exposed.  Then, a pair of needle-nosed  pliers can be used to withdraw the pin.

Sometimes the slot in the key needs to be lengthened so that the key can be withdrawn far enough to clear the loop in the barrel.  I ground the set off both sides of a hacksaw blade for doing this job.  Then I clean up the slot with abrasive cloth pulled tight through the slot.  Sometimes too, the slot is too narrow for even the smallest finishing nail.  Then simply file the nail thinner, and set it into the hole to align with the slot in the slide.

Personally, I really like slides rather than pins, when they are appropriate.  I remove my barrel for cleaning, every time, and the slides make this easier than pushing out pins.  My Kuntz and Verner rifles, and of course, my Hawken all use the captured key/slide.  I'll see if I have some pics of those installations.

This is the forearm of my Verner rifle at the third slide (of four).  I made the slides by cutting steel stock down the middle with a hack saw, and then silver solder on the head.

[Jerry V Lape]

Daryl,  Your description is exactly what I needed.  I had considered the pin need to be right at the edge of the vertical wood in the barrel channel.  Gives the greatest travel to the slotted wedge and puts the pin in the thickest/strongest wood available.  Thanks for the help. 

[Dave B]

If your using escutcheons  I use a veiner to cut a vertical slot and use a pice of 1/16th  rod cut to size to drop in just before screwing down the final fitted plate. Taylors method works great for wedges with out escuteons.

[snowdragon]

Same as Dave B, the escutcheons hold the pin in place. Very simple and easy to remove if the need arrives. Bill

[Daryl]

Taylor, perhaps you need to remove the "D." in front of your name.  Taylor, good explanation on pinning, btw.

[Jerry V Lape]

Taylor, I am sorry that I did that again!  Did the same thing about a year ago giving your brother credit for a response when it was your credit.  I promise to be much more careful in the future.  Probably a symptom of having been slapped with the parachute end connectors too many times.   My apology to both you and your brother.  Thank you for the excellent explanation about pinning though. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Not to worry, Jerry.  Even our mom, at 90, still gets us mixed up.  What's funny, is that our parents gave us both the same initials - DTS!

[Daryl]

 HA!   Daryl Thomas Sapergia  It is of no consequence, Jerry - it happens.   She's 91 in November & still driving her Buick.

[Jerry V Lape]

My mother is still around as well.  She was 94 on St. Patrick's Day.  She did give up her car 3 years ago.  Used to kid her that the volunteer fire dept across from her house blew the siren whenever they saw her car heading out - just to warn the community she was loose again.  Currently she is the scourge of the card and board games at the assisted living home.  Still remembers a lot of Bible scripture and understands it very clearly.  Legs aren't very strong anymore so mostly she is driving a wheel chair around.  Always wants to know if I have finished my rifle yet.  She was staying with me when I started building my first flintlock. 

[Pete G.]

Not to worry, Jerry.  Even our mom, at 90, still gets us mixed up.  What's funny, is that our parents gave us both the same initials - DTS!

Maybe she only wanted to have to buy one monogrammed sweater.

[KLMoors]

One other thought. When you remove the barrel, slide the key back into the slot. I saw a beautiful Hawken reproduction get badly split at a shoot once. The barrel had been removed, and the key got caught on something when the stock was being handled and split the heck out of the forend.