Author Topic: pine tar finish  (Read 6722 times)

Offline Duane Harshaw

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pine tar finish
« on: October 14, 2012, 02:53:57 AM »
I need some information about pine tar finish,what it is mixed with,how to apply,and any picture's of a tar finish would be apreciated...Thx.
Coaldale Alberta Canada

Offline Cory Joe Stewart

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2012, 03:05:08 AM »
Wallace Gussler used a tar and turpentine finish in his Carving DVD.  At least I think it was turpentine.  I would have to go back and watch it.

Coryjoe

Offline JCKelly

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2012, 03:34:22 AM »
Reminds me, the Tigres are on, playing NY tonight. Gotta go.

Offline volatpluvia

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2012, 06:01:51 AM »
Coryjoe,
I believe it was a pine tar and Boiled linseed oil finish.  He might have thinned the first coat with turpentine, but it has been a long time since I saw it last.  When I go back to PA to get my furniture, I will make sure I see it again.
volatpluvia
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Offline Tom Currie

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2012, 05:01:24 PM »
Would be hard to put a pine tar finish gun down. Sure would be easy to get attached to a gun with this finish.

Offline pathfinder

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2012, 05:47:52 PM »
I use "Ashphaltum",road tar,thinned with real turpentine on my Ash stock's. While a kid growing up in the furniture restoration biz,Grandpa used to have us kid's on hot day's,"borrow" road tar from the crack's in the street's for use in the shop.

Gives a nice warm golden brown.
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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2012, 06:42:26 PM »
....from the nearly frozen northland.

While it's true that not nearly as many people up here cross country ski as once did, and those that do have mostly switched to wax less composites, a few of us "old timers" still use a wooden ski. Those that do prefer a pine tar base finish with a wax overcoat. It is a wonderfully durable finish when you consider that it spends it's life being dragged face down over snow and crystalline ice surfaces.

The application is simple and nearly fool proof. Smear it on with and old rag and melt it in with a propane torch. As it melts and cools, rub like crazy with anything that helps spread it. An old sock, a towel, a piece of burlap; anything. Add more coats if desired. Wonderfully smooth, waterproof and, it smells good. Finish with wax.

pake

Offline WadePatton

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2012, 07:13:03 PM »
I use "Ashphaltum",road tar,thinned with real turpentine on my Ash stock's. While a kid growing up in the furniture restoration biz,Grandpa used to have us kid's on hot day's,"borrow" road tar from the crack's in the street's for use in the shop.

Gives a nice warm golden brown.
or, for those who don't live near a chip/tar public surface, the feed stores sell it for equine use (i think it has for hooves). 
Hold to the Wind

Offline FL-Flintlock

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2012, 05:35:19 PM »
If you're going to purchase "pine tar", request the complete ingredient list from the mfg because most of the equine/critter products are not pure pine tar.  Real pine tar contains upwards of 10% volatiles, be sure to allow ample time for evaporation and off-gassing before attempting to top-coat with a finish or you'll end up with a real mess.
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Offline gusd

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2012, 08:59:29 PM »
I use tree & ornamental wound paint. Old qt. can made by
Bonide. Smells like a road just tarred.
Can vary color with min. spirits. I don't know if it is
still avail.
gus

Offline Kermit

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2012, 09:18:47 PM »
Here's the real stuff. Genuine olde fashioned marine Stockholm tar. Accept no substitutes.

http://www.tarsmell.com/tar.html

In my years around traditional wooden boats, I often encountered folks who tried to use roofing tar, horsehoof tar, road tar, yadayada... I've never encountered anything that works--and looks--like the real deal. Opinionated? Nah.

There are a lot of boatbuilders who have secret formulas for "boat sauce" or "boat soup." Many of them are just adding a dolup of tar to some other marine finish. About as easy and traditional as you can get, though, is equal parts by volume of true Stockholm tar, genuine turpentine (I've heard some claim "mineral spirits" is as good, but I don't think so), and boiled linseed oil. My only secret ingredient is a small shot of Japan drier. You can make it more expensive, but you can't make it better, IMHO. You might want to fiddle the proportions some to increase the turps, but keep the tar/BLO about equal.

Apply, let it soak in, apply again, etc. Big hint: it kicks off with exposure to UV. Those who have trouble with the stickies use too much at a go and don't set it in direct sunlight to cure. Using other tar products eventually results in a dull black finish that's hard to do anything with but keep on oiling and claim it's traditional.

Use the real stuff, use the sun, take your time. And show us your results!

"Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly." Mae West

Offline flintriflesmith

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Re: pine tar finish
« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2012, 05:19:33 AM »
Wallace Gusler used a tar and turpentine finish in his Carving DVD.  At least I think it was turpentine.  I would have to go back and watch it.
Coryjoe

I think this thread is mixing apples and oranges --- Finish and Stain. The use Wallace and I made of "tar and turpentine," as far back as 1960, was as a stain --- not a finish. We also used tar (Ashphaltum) with hot linseed oil but the tar was stain and the oil was finish.

I tried some pine tar that Mark Silver gave me on a maple tomahawk handle and that batch would not not get as dark as I like for a rifle stock. It also remained sticky and needed a top coat of "finish."
Gary


Gary
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