Gun builders bench

[Dan H.]

Hello,  I'm new to building, and am just starting out. I have built an Armstrong .45 Cal from a pre-carved stock a few years back. I don't have much space to build. A bench in the laundry is about it. I bought Mark Silvers video on rifle building with traditional tools & Mike Millers on pistol building last year. I have a vice, about a dozen carving chisels & gouges. Any suggestions for an aspiring builder. Thank you.

[490roundball]

welcome Dan

a comment each on workspace and tools - what ever you have is not big enough, and no you don't have tools enough , ever  

there is a recent thread on building a shop - you'll find suggestions for every thing from make do to purpose built dedicated shops.  if you pay attention to the posters you'll see its the craftman's skill not his space that makes quality.

are you looking for examples/plans for the benches some use?

there are some good books depending on what style you are planning to build, and you'll gettremedous advice here.

[Dave B]

Hi Dan,
You must decide what type of building you want to do. If you will only use the precarve stocks then you will not need as heavy a work station as say some one who builds from a blank. That said I like a solid vice and work bench that is secured to the wall so you can get after shaping with out every thing wobbling all over. Always buy the best tools you can afford. Cheap tools wont last long however functional at the start. I prefer to dig through the old junk shops to find hidden treasure in old tools that can be fixed up to be perfect for this work. The use of a plank that can be clamped to a table will work to secure a solid vice that is transportable will allow the conversion of a counter or kitchen table into a work bench. There are some great free standing bun building  stands guys have made that are portable and allow you to walk around the project and not have to take in and out of the vice.

[smylee grouch]

Welcome Dan. Your laundry might be on the humid side for gun building but you might be able to stabilize any exces moisture laden air with a dehumidifier. Somethying to think about anyway.   Smylee

[Dan H.]

Thank you all. I hadn't thought about humidity. I bought a heavy vise and reinforced that corner. As far as the type of building, I have a Lehigh (Stophil long) precarved with a .50 Cal Rice swamped barrel I got from Dave Keck as my winter project. After that I'm taking the plunge and going to carve my own. I want to learn engraving and have been told John Schipper's class is well worth the money. I live in Indianapolis, so the 5 day at Conner prairie has my wheels turning. I'm kind of afraid of being too green for it. I did just order the. CD/DVD's from the Kentucky Rifle Federation 2010 & 2011. I want the RCA book's, but still taking baby steps. Again, Thanks for the info & I'll follow the threads.

[Mark Elliott]

My perspective is a little different that the others.   I believe that a sturdy bench is an absolute necessity having tried it on all sorts of jury rigged benches.    I build benches out of 2x4s and 3/4" plywood using two ladder frames, one for the top and one for a shelf with 2 2x4s screwed together for each of two legs at the front.   The back of the top and shelf are screwed into studs in the wall with 4" lag screws.     You can made do with a 6' bench, but an 8' bench uses an entire sheet of plywood.   You assemble it all with drywall screws and 1/4" carriage bolts.   

As for tools,  you can get away will just hand tools if you do it Mark Silvers way, and you can buy a lot of good quality antique tools on ebay relatively cheap.   All of the best builders I know use a relatively small set of tools for most of their work.   Many of the tools they made themselves.   You do need to be able to make your own tools to be a top notch gunsmith.   You just can't buy everything.   Mostly, you are going to need to make planes, scrapers, a scratch stock, and special chisels.   You will also need various forms and mandrels.   I actually have a list of all the tools I have on my various benches when I am building a rifle.   I intend to put it on the blog on my web site (www.markelliottva.com) but just haven't gotten around to it yet.   I will endeavor to do it soon.

[JohnTyg]

Can't agree more with a Heavy bench as a priority.   Fortunately my 1928 home came with a bench that is as old as the house and too heavy to move.  That being said you can make a gun anywhere,... some places easier than others.

I have thoroughly enjoyed working outdoors over the summer and fall using a Black and Decker "work-mate" and a picnic table for much of the finish work.  Great natural lighting and recently somewhat refreshing (temp. in the 50s).

Welcome and much good advice here that I've found invaluable.



John

[Jim Kibler]

Yes, I'm with those who think a heavy bench is important.  I have seen the very light set-ups some use and know they wouldn't work they way I build a gun.

[TinStar]

My bench top is about  8' and is an old bowling alley. Now that's heavy.

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!

[Kermit]

Where benches are concerned, heavy is your friend. Tube sand can solve weight problems. Sloppy wobbles and lack of stiffness are different matters. If it's not sturdy, you can try to brace it up, but sometimes it's better to start over.

I bought an 8' hunk of bowling alley a bunch years back. Ripped it lengthwise with a "skilsaw" and a sacrificial carbide nail cutting blade. TWO heavy benches with bases made from stout lumberyard timber.

BTW, the first few feet of the alleys I got mine from were hard maple. The rest was southern yellow pine. The pine is fine.

[Chris Treichel]

Considering what I am currently using (kitchen counter) I think when I finally get arround to building a new workshop I will use that material as a workbench top.  You can get old countertops from kitchen refineshers for a song as they would otherwise have to pay for disposal.  Stuff is perfectly flat and pretty heavy. 

[WadePatton]

when acquiring "bowling alley" note that the ends of the lanes-where the ball drops onto the surface and the far end where the pins are--are the hardwood sections, usually maple.  the middle part is pine...and not nearly so dandy for a work surface. 

But don't 'miss the chance as more and more houses go to synthetic/laminate surfaces that don't need replacing as often.

my main workbench is a 4x6 plate of 1/4 steel.  it's a little big-

[t.caster]

I still like my stand alone/walk around bench w/two little Pana-Vises. It is made of ruff sawn oak and weighs around 80~100 lbs. Started using this one in the late 80s.

Hey, no problem posting this pic w/PhotoBucket. They call the albums a library now.
Oh, and that articulating lamp has been replaced twice since this photo was taken. They can't take my abuse, but I find them cheap.

[Chris Treichel]

Now that is a great idea.  Learned something new again... Will file that away somewher for a future shop.

[Stone River]

Welcome Dan,
     I have the same bench in my shed as Mark E.  Unfortunately I have no heat in there and this time of year it's mighty chilly.  A few months back I lucked into one that I can put into my finished basement.  There was a butcher/meat shop in the building that I work in that went out of business and a new business moved in.  For weeks I looked at a butcherblock bench, 2'x4' just sitting outside in the rain.  Finally I asked the owner of the new business what they were going to do with it.  She said they were trying to figure out how to lift it into the dumpster!  It's solid maple, with a nice draw for my chisels etc, and it weights a ton, extra bonus is the price was right, free!

sr

[Dan H.]

All very helpful hints. Thanks again. The tube sand is interesting. I saw Ace's tutorial on a Lehigh patchbox and noticed he had the buttstock bungee strapped to a bag of what I'm guessing is lead shot. Necessity really is the mother of invention. Lol. That is one idea I'm borrowing. I'll keep plugging away. Have a safe and happy holiday everybody.

[Dan H.]

"Acer's"- dumbphone autocorrect.