As I've been threatening to do this for too long and now am quite close to actually doing such, and another recent post put this into mind here goes:
I'll be attempting some slabbing with a large chainsaw (99cc/30"bar) freehand with chalkline layout. Once I get things pared down somewhat I can utilize the Alaskan mill to make better cuts-but my Alaskan is too small for some logs I have. Also have a Haddon Lumbermaker attachment could be employed-it is simply a bar guide that runs along 2x4-6 stock (or more accurately on oversized stock ripped down to fit).
I understand about stacking/stickering and endgrain sealing. Wondering more about actual layout of cuts. I'm planning on attempting to to get 3-3.5 inches on either side of the center parallel to any contour-such as through the fork/crotch and or with the bend of the log. I'm especially targeting crotchety/twisty wood-for their curious grain of course.
Have lots of Cherry (one great blowdown (big crotch), that'll I'll slab where it lays) and all sorts of Ash and Maple and Walnut leavings from our current logging operations.
I suppose I need to go waste a few gallons of fuel on some logs and pieces that might not be so pretty. I have a couple of Walnut stumps to whack up--and should sealed the moment they were cut but didn't have any goo.
the local log yard uses plastic looking "stays" for lack of the proper term to control checks in Walnut. Should I look into those or just get the waxy stuff. Source for the wax? I also have access to industrial outdoor latex paint (on the cheap).
dimensionally i'm satisfied with 3+ inches as long and wide as practical.
recap: slab layout and controlling checking are the main Q's. thanks
A fresh Black Cherry blowdown. And no, that's a baby saw for bushwhacking and moderate firewooding. i have a crosscut (if we need to be pc)-but it needs sharpening and new handles (and a partner who won't "ride the saw").