tumbler with no half-cock notch

[Richard Snyder]

I have a rifle I purchased in the mid 1990's from Myron Carlson that has what appears to be a fairly old cap lock with no half-cock notch and double set triggers.  Can anyone outline how to safely load and shoot this gun?  It certainly doesn't seem safe to set the triggers, cock the lock to full cock, then cap the lock.
thanks,
Richard Snyder

[Harnic]

Some set triggers will only work when set Richard.  If yours is that type, maybe the maker intended that to be the safety?  Not smart, but builders come with all levels of intelligence too.

[ironwolf]

  Put the cap on, then set the trigger.

k

[Longknife]

Richard, After loading and pointing it down range pull the hammer back  just enough to cap it then let the hammer down slowly on the cap. You will need to use one of those mechanical cappers or a home made leather capper.... I have an original rifle like this and when I hunt with it I have a thick piece of leather on a cord, tied to the trig. guard. I place it between the cap and the hammer, when the hammer is cocked the leather falls off (most of the time)....Ed

[Dphariss]

I have a rifle I purchased in the mid 1990's from Myron Carlson that has what appears to be a fairly old cap lock with no half-cock notch and double set triggers.  Can anyone outline how to safely load and shoot this gun?  It certainly doesn't seem safe to set the triggers, cock the lock to full cock, then cap the lock.
thanks,
Richard Snyder

Lots of cheap percussion locks were made this way originally.

Load it pull the hammer back cap it then set the hammer down of the cap until ready to shoot.
Best to have someone put a 1/2 cock and a fly in the lock as it should have been in the first place.

Dan

[famouseagle]

Man, that sounds scary.  I wouldn't want to have a gun with the hammer resting on a live cap until I'm "ready to shoot".  Drop the gun, get it caught in a fence - sounds like a sure way to injure someone. 

The only method that sounds reasonably safe would be to cock the hammer, place the cap on the nipple, set the trigger and shoot - all done whilst the gun is safely pointed downrange.

[Daryl]

I agree with Dan. It needs a fly and 1/2 cock notch - or single trigger and 1/2 cock notch.  A good riflesmith could make a new tumbler for ithe rifle - Taylor's made several when suppliers were out of stock.

 If you get Track's catologue with their full-size lock part diagrams, you might be able to find one that is close enough that could either be atered to fit or the hammer or sear altered very slightly to match.

[Dan]

Richard, what you did not tell us is particulars about the gun and its intended purpose. Double set triggers without a half cock were common on target rifles back in the era of picket and slug guns.  Have one made by Peter Reinhard myself, a light picket from 1876. The lock is not what I'd describe as cheap, for the entire gun is an exercise in quality hand craftsmanship, with a release in the <2 # range.  For target work it's straightforward: load and bench the gun, then put a cap on with the hammer at full cock....and shoot.  It's not a rifle one would take hunting for the most part, due to weight.  So, that's my perspective based on a sample of one.

[Richard Snyder]

Thank you all for your responses so far.
Dan,
The rifle was made by Myron Carlson from Illinois in the mid 1990's.  Many of you knew Myron.  He reproduced primarily iron mounted southern rifles, and I suspect this is a reproduction of an original, perhaps with an original lock, however Myron is no longer with us so I cannot ask him.

It is an interesting rifle that I purchased from him about 10 years ago.  I have never fired it, but I think it might be fun to shoot.  I suspect I will only use it for target shooting.
Richard