Plane down the lock panel and reinlet the lock?

[Jerry V Lape]

Didn't want to hijack the thread on the Hickory stocked rifle.  But just for educational benefit, it would be interesting to read/see how you execute that suggestion in case the technique became useful at some later date?  Would you  plane down to the barrel the full length of the fore end and lock panel before splicing in the wood or would the splice just be deep enough to cover the edges of the lock? 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The very first longrifle I built utilized a T/C Seneca lock, and the patent breech to match.  At the time I thought it was great, but obviously, now I know what an abomination it was.  Some time ago, the owner had me convert it to flint, and I replaced the trigger guard while I was at it too.

I used a Davis Late Ketland flintlock.  I planed off the existing lock panel down to the bottom of the moldings, and glued on a piece of maple.  I inlet the new plate, and replaced the patent breech with one I made to match the flint lock action.  After restaining and refinishing the entire rifle, one cannot see the glue line, and it looks so much better than it did.

[Robby]

Jerry,  Like Taylor, i planed it down to a line of moulding, glued on a piece of maple and re inlet, and  refinished, well refinished the whole gun, Hah! In my case this was my first long gun and I inlet the tail of the lock too high. It bothered me to the point that I had to do something. It made all the difference in how the gun flows!

I realize that on Rich's gun there is no moulding, but in my experience with hickory and its grain structure, the glue line is all but invisible.
Robby

[Captchee]

 i have an original SXS stock out in the shop that i  often use for paterns . both motices have been replaced at one time  just as Robby has posted

[rich pierce]

@ Robby, if that's your first gun, you're really gifted.

[Robby]

That's very kind of you Rich. I don't really agree, but appreciate it.
Robby