Help with adding a Steel bit in a bronze ax head

[Ky-Flinter]

I'm almost finished putting a pipe hawk together using one of Reeves Goering's bronze castings and it's looking pretty good, so I thought maybe I should find a way to make this project more difficult and/or give myself some additional opportunities to screw up.

So, I've been thinking lately about installing a steel bit in the head.  Those dovetailed steel bits just look so good!  Are they just a press, interference fit or do they require soldering?

I will be much obliged for any and all how-to information, encouragment, admonishments, etc.  Thanks!

-Ron

[Robby]

KY, I used a piece of lawn mower blade, cut and filed a dovetail on it. Scribed it onto the brass hawk head to match. Almost a line to line fit that I had to squeeze together in a vice, and then silver soldered them together.
Robby

[heinz]

I have done this twice on brass bodied pipe axes.  I silver soldered them in place.  The dovetail can be peened to hold the blade in place while brazing or silver soldering

[LURCHWV@BJS]

could the steel be brought up in temp to a dull red and forge welded in place? I've been toying with the idea of a War Hawk in brass with a  1095 steel cutting edge. How would it have been done in the  1700's?

  Rich

[John Archer]

Rich you cannot weld brass...silver solder is the answer.

John.

[LRB]

could the steel be brought up in temp to a dull red and forge welded in place? I've been toying with the idea of a War Hawk in brass with a  1095 steel cutting edge. How would it have been done in the  1700's?

  Rich

1095 would be overkill, and it is too difficult to heat treat properly. Besides that, these types of tomahawks were not intended for other than ceremony or emergency use.

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Rich you cannot weld brass...silver solder is the answer.

John

1095 would be overkill, and it is too difficult to heat treat properly. Besides that, these types of tomahawks were not intended for other than ceremony or emergency use.

   O.K.  Point taken, I'm still learning, didn't know they were soldered. I've only seen pics.   1095 was suggested off the forum through emails. I'll never learn without asking questions.
  Thank you
  Rich

[culpeperlt]

I put an insert in one of these same axes last year.  As already noted, make the bit with dovetail, and then cut the axe head to fit.  I'd suggest 1070/1080 for the bit; less brittle and still a good amount of carbon.  Silver solder it on and as soon as the solder solidifies, quench in oil.  To temper, draw the bit back to a dark blue and clean up the excess solder.  It took a bit more time than I had anticipated, but the end result was pretty nice.

Kyle

[Ky-Flinter]

Thanks everyone for the advice and pointers.  I'll start by making the steel bit, and see how that goes.

-Ron

[mtgraver]

Brass ax with a steel bit were cast in place more often than not, today we can silver solder or braze steel in place, properly fit of course. I typically use an old piece of file steel, forged to rough shape, dovetails filed and fit to the brass, easier to fit the brass to steel in a cold state. I will allow the joint to solidify by either method, then work my heat to the edge to hardening temp., quench the edge only hold for a few seconds withdraw the head and allow the tempering of the edge then quench the whole thing. Mind you, there is no intent of actually using but a fun practice and does give some integrity to the edge. We all know someone will inevitably want to test it out, nothing more embarrassing than to have an edge rollover or ding at the slightest bump. Go for it, a good way to learn some fun and rewarding skills. Just one school of thought on the subject anyway.
Mark

[Jim Kibler]

I've been told that tinning the steel bit with silver braze prior to placing it in a sand mold for casting the brass head, allow for a good bond between the brass and steel.