Author Topic: Forming sand cast brass  (Read 2400 times)

Birdhunter

  • Guest
Forming sand cast brass
« on: April 15, 2013, 04:10:35 AM »
Does anyone have any experience trying to hammer form sand cast brass of unknown composition? I have a heavy guard that I would like to stretch the grip rail on & didn't know if it was worth the effort of annealing or if I should just cut it apart & add a new one cut from heavy sheet stock.
Birdhunter

Offline James Wilson Everett

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1102
Re: Forming sand cast brass
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2013, 01:36:33 PM »
Birdhunter,

I have had much experience in forging cast brass.  Unfortunately, sometimes it works well and sometimes it is a disaster.  I believe that this depends on the alloy and purity of the brass.  If the brass is good stuff - heat the brass just to dull red in a dim lighted room and allow to cool, quench in water is OK.  Then cold forge the part.  Be careful in forging as the brass will work harden quickly and requires several subsequent cycles of heating, quenching, forging until you are happy with the part.  Do not heat the part to bright cherry red, only dull red in a dim light.  Stop forging sooner than you think, sometimes that one additional hammer blow will ruin the part, better to heat, quench more often.

On the other hand, last month I tried this with a sand cast trigger guard and quickly ended up with broken junk.  Poor alloy brass.  I know this answer gives no confidence since you do not know if the brass is a good alloy or not, but maybe the blind squirrel will find the acorn.

Jim

Offline Acer Saccharum

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 19311
    • Thomas  A Curran
Re: Forming sand cast brass
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2013, 04:26:48 PM »
Get as much sand and surface crud off the part before you begin to stretch it. The pounding will drive the nasties into the metal.

As Jim has said, you won't know what you've got until you try it. If it won't stretch, then it's useless anyway. So go for it.

Heed his advice about annealing often. A straight pein hammer, with the ridge parallel with the handle, would be the ideal tool for the job.
Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.