how to correctly polish a barrel?

[magyar]

afternoon all,

i am at the point in my first build of considering what to do with the barrel. The barrel is the typical rough finish straight from the factory. How do you all suggest going about polishing it in preparation for blueing or browning? i have heard filing, filing, and more filing. Is this the best method? I have a good size sand blaster that works great on taking rust off and polishing parts. Any thoughts on using it on my barrel? Anyone done this before?

Also, anyone ever polished their brass hardware in a tumbler for polishing reloads?

Not trying to take any easy way out here! I enjoy putting the time in. But doesn't hurt to work smarter, not harder, if i can.

[Mark Elliott]

If you have a barrel from someone like Colerain that  is not sanded at the factory, then the best way to clean up the barrel is draw file it.    This doesn't take that much time and won't round over the corners and edges like sand blasting.   Also,  you only finish the five sides that show.  Sand blasting on a gun of any type is a really bad idea in my book.   I am for using as little sand paper or other abrasives as possible.   I hope you haven't inlet the barrel yet.   The draw filing needs to be done before you inlet the barrel or you will have gaps.    The same with all parts that are inlet.   They need to be finished where they contact the wood.   I generally have everything done on the barrel except for the tenons and final polishing when I inlet it.   All the other mounts are done except for the final polishing or filing that needs to be done for a flush fit with the wood.  The lock is completely finished, polished and engraved when I inlet it.    I polish the barrel using 1" wide 120 grit and 320 grit Emory cloth on a 6" long sanding block.    Mainly,  I am just cleaning up the scratches and dings from the build process.   It shouldn't take more than minutes.   Remember,  only the sides that show.   Everything else can be as rough as you want.   On original guns,  the parts of the barrel and mounts that don't show look like they had taken a rasp to them.    They are real rough.    

[Ed Wenger]

What Mark said about the barrel...

I'm thinking you might have the same problems with a brass tumbler relative to edges as well (rounding them).  It doesn't take a lot of time to finish brass utilizing files, abrasives, polishing compounds or scotch brite pads...  I agree about working smart, but think you'll be more pleased with the results doing it "the old fashioned way".

     Ed

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

For the barrel, draw file.  this involves holding the file handle in the left hand and pulling the file toward you.  If you prefer to push rather than pull. hold the file handle in your right hand, and push.  I think you can achieve better control by pulling - draw filing.
if your are going to brown it, you might want to go as far as 320, or even finer, for a polished look, or only 180 for a matte look.

 And it all depends on how period you want your rifle.  Many originals are not highly polished, even on the visible flats.

[dogcreek]

Draw filing is the best way to get a good surface finish on your barrel. Don't forget to use chalk on the file. And use a file card to remove steel chips from the file so they don't scratch the barrel. Then sand the barrel to the degree of smoothness you desire.

[kutter]

Use a rougher cut (single cut) file on the draw filing and you don't have the problem of scars in your work  from small chips imbedded in the file teeth. The larger space between the teeth makes for enough room that they don't pack in there tightly. If you rap the file against the vise every other stroke or so to empty it of the swarf, it'll stay clean.
No chalk, no file brush
Keep and use a new file that works well for you just for draw filing.
Push it or pull it, what ever works for you. There's no MrMeister standing over your shoulder.
I don't use a handle on my files at all. In draw filing you may find a handle particularly in the way.
I grasp the file blade itself with both hands for better control. Up close to the flat being filed makes for less tendency to slant the file that way, at least for me.
There are specially made files just for draw filing too that have the teeth rows set at a different angle from hand files if you want to go that route.

Use lighter pressure to get a finer finish. Then go the 180 or further backed with the file if you want to slick it up a bit.
But the longer you fuss over it with the grit cloth backed w/a file (or whatever), the better the chances of starting to loose the extreme sharpness of the edges that the draw file finish produces.

I wouldn't bead blast it for a surface texture though it's done sometimes on rust blue jobs to hide some imperfections in polishing. Glass beading peens the steel surface. That's how it makes ridges and polish lines go away.

I'd rather lightly etch the surface before browning or bluing.  That will also mask some of the file and polishing lines as a bead blast will do.
It will make for an almost perfect surface to rust brown/blue on.
Ferric chloride solution (cold) is the easiest. Etching with a nitric acid solution while the steel is hot,,right out of the boiling water is another and an old way to do it.
Both soln's are very weak when used , around 5%. Bores must be protected during either etching process.
 

[David Rase]

I have not used anything on a barrel to prep it for browning or bluing except a file for as long as I can remember, hence the word "drawfile".  Can't say I can remember ever hearing the word "drawsanding".  I draw file the top 5 flats lengthways until they are smooth the entire length and bastard file the bottom 3 flats at a 45 degree angle leaving them rough with file marks.  I use a 6" wire wheel to card so there is no rust scale buildup.  I am finished browning or blueing when I can wire wheel the barrel and get an even color that will not come off using the wheel.
David

 

[Dennis Glazener]

David,
I would be interested in more info about the wire wheel that you use to "card" are you carding the file or the barrel (or both) with it. I am afraid my 6" wire wheel is way too coarse for either. It sounds like something I need to buy.
Dennis

I have not used anything on a barrel to prep it for browning or bluing except a file for as long as I can remember, hence the word "drawfile".  Can't say I can remember ever hearing the word "drawsanding".  I draw file the top 5 flats lengthways until they are smooth the entire length and bastard file the bottom 3 flats at a 45 degree angle leaving them rough with file marks.  I use a 6" wire wheel to card so there is no rust scale buildup.  I am finished browning or blueing when I can wire wheel the barrel and get an even color that will not come off using the wheel.
David

[smallpatch]

Dennis,

Brownell's sells a 1" wide fine wire wheel designed just for carding.  I think it's called a Diskocel, or something like that.  I have two, and the 1" width makes them really nice.  Cards Even, and smooth without baring the edges of the flats of the barrel.  They won't even tear your skin up, so you don't even have to wear gloves.  (I do anyway)

[Dphariss]

afternoon all,

i am at the point in my first build of considering what to do with the barrel. The barrel is the typical rough finish straight from the factory. How do you all suggest going about polishing it in preparation for blueing or browning? i have heard filing, filing, and more filing. Is this the best method? I have a good size sand blaster that works great on taking rust off and polishing parts. Any thoughts on using it on my barrel? Anyone done this before?

Also, anyone ever polished their brass hardware in a tumbler for polishing reloads?

Not trying to take any easy way out here! I enjoy putting the time in. But doesn't hurt to work smarter, not harder, if i can.

Correctly? Polished?

Draw file to remove the mill marks. Note draw filing is metal preparation its NOT polishing.

Using 1/4? Plexi-glas strips with wet or dry paper affixed with double stick carpet tape. Start wit 150 0r 180 and go to 320. Use the first grit at a slight angle to the file marks and work till the file marks are gone, they will show better at the slight angle than if the polishing runs with the file marks. Switch to 220 and work straight down the flat to expose the coarser paper marks. When the finish is all 220 switch to 320 and work at a slight angle to the 220 marks to expose them. When the 220 marks are cleaned off run somewhat used (dulled somewhat) 320 straight down the flat will make all the polish marks run the same direction.
Done.
This is POLISHING a barrel. Yeah on a large 4150 alloy barrel is can take most of the day. Or you will think so at least.

Outside the ML world this is what is expected and if the customer pays attention there better not be file marks showing.
If the barrel is to be engraved then 400 might be used depending of how high polish is desired.
However, polish over 320 while it will give a high luster look to bluing (400-600 with hot tank blue is pretty impressive), it is harder to get the first coat or two of brown solution to coat the barrel evenly.

Yes I know its too much for a ML. But I used to work on "real" guns.
Dan

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

David, do you use some sort of stand-off to prevent you pushing too hard against the wire wheel?  I bought one of the soft carding wheels from Brownell;s but destroyed it - lost a lot of bristles - because I could not keep the barrel from ramming into the revolving wheel.  I have not replaced it, but have thought that some sort of wooden block set up to limit the pressure against the bristles, would prevent damaging the wheel.

[David Rase]

Dennis,
My wire wheel has .008" non crimped wire on it.  It is sold as a fine grade wire wheel.  Unfortunately, not all fine wire wheels have the same diameter wire.  My first fine wire wheel had .006" wire on it.  I really liked it but gave up trying to find another one like it.  I settled for the .008" and it works just fine.  Like I stated earlier, eventually you will get a brown stain on your barrel that the wheel will not knock off, only the crust and scale is removed.  I have a browning box, I use Tru brown and end up with 6 or 7 twelve hour browning cycles.
Taylor,
I also bought one of the Brownells wheels and thought it was too fine and not agressive enough.  You will have to shop around for a suitable "fine" wire wheel.  I emailed internet companys before I bought the last wire wheel and ask them to mic the wire.  It only took a couple of trys until I found what I was wooling for. 
As for guiding the barrel, I have a wooden Vee block  attached to my bench below my 6" grinder that helps support the barrel.
Hope this answers your questions.
David

[Dennis Glazener]

Dennis,
My wire wheel has .008" non crimped wire on it.  It is sold as a fine grade wire wheel.  Unfortunately, not all fine wire wheels have the same diameter wire.  My first fine wire wheel had .006" wire on it.  I really liked it but gave up trying to find another one like it.  I settled for the .008" and it works just fine.  Like I stated earlier, eventually you will get a brown stain on your barrel that the wheel will not knock off, only the crust and scale is removed.  I have a browning box, I use Tru brown and end up with 6 or 7 twelve hour browning cycles.

Thanks David, now to see if I can find one.
Dennis

[WadePatton]

I don't know why, but the way i do it chalk causes more trouble than it solves.  So i don't use it. 

I learned to drawfile by taking the step out of a "modern" turnbolt military conversion-where keeping it round was the order of the day.  it was good practice.  I actually enjoy draw-filing, $#*! i like all filing so long as the file is good and the metal is agreeable. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Thanks David.  I knew there must be some system involving a guide.  I'm pretty steady with hands alone, but not steady enough to prevent the barrel from 'bouncing' into the wheel, and throwing bristles.  The 'v' block is the answer.

[sydney]

I used Brownell s wire wheels for years and they need to be run at a low RPM
 and in one direction-i mark my whebounceel and always run the same way
 After they break in they don t bonce or pull out wire
    Sydney

[TMerkley]

I would have to say the purpose of the rifle should dictate how it is to be finished.  About 20 years a go, i re-finished my CVA Frontier that was purchased as kit. The barrel was lightly sanded and blued.  I did not care for the finish and decided to experiment with my father's sandblaster.  I plugged the bore and the nipple and blasted it.  I then washed the dirt off and applied a 44-40 cold blue that we picked up at Friendship.  After applying the bluing, I rinsed the barrel and allowed it to dry on top of the woodstove.  Later that evening, it had a orange color of rust.  I applied oil to the barrel and wiped it off.  The final finish was a dull bluish,brownish color that was perfect for hunting as there was no glare.  With the sandblaster etching the metal it allowed for the oil to remain in the pores and better protect it from the elements.  I had another rifle about that time, that had a smooth, polished barrel that would start to rust as soon as it got wet.  This barrel can be handled and rained on and will not start turn rusty for some time.  Even after several hours in a rainy environment the barrel just needed to be dried and oiled without having any new oxidation. I was thoroughly amazed at how well it turned out and have kept it that way since.  Try that method on a scrap piece of metal and see what you think.  Some may like it and others may not. 

[Dphariss]

Having worked for a company where the bead blast finish was standard on barrels I can say that it does give a mat finish.
However the beaded surface wears rapidly and very little use will result in a barrel where the steel shows through at the edges of the craters  on a hot tank blued barrel.
Unless really heavily scaled rust is not much better.
I dislike bead blast finish for this reason.
So use a 320 grit on most barrels. This rarely causes a problem when hunting (once for me in years of hunting) and is less reflective than patch boxes and other parts. Or even a shiny stock finish for that matter.

Dan