How to remove old finish from barrel

[Blue Dog]

I am a newbi so if this is a repeat I am sorry. I have a Thompson Center Renegade That I picked up in trade that has an awful finish to it I was told it was a rainbow finish whatever that is anyway it looks like polished brass I would like to rebuild this rifle from the ground up and see 1st if I am up to the task and 2nd what and How it will perform when I do it. Oh by the way it is a left handed rifle but I know that if I get it finished right there is a special person to give it to. Any and all comments will be welcome. Thanks

[WadePatton]

Might make a difference if you know where you want to go with the bbl finish.

I'd sand it bright, then proceed from there.

[Blue Dog]

I want to go with a rust finish.

[kutter]

I'd draw file the bbl to get the old finish off and also clean up the lines and flats.
Not knowing how good or bad the polish is on it now, I just normally start there especially if the finish on top
of it is an unknown type.
Nothing too aggressive, just a medium cut flat file, nice even strokes. Use a clean, sharp file. Use a new one if possible and save it just for draw filing.
It leaves nice sharp corners to the octagon edges and flat surfaces where you expect them.

Removing old rust brown or rust blue finishes can load up the draw file quite quickly when you first attack them. So kick the file clean on the side of the vise often the keep the teeth clear so you don't score the bbl surface. Once the old rust finish is cut through, it gets much easier to draw file clean full length strokes down the flats.

You don't have to go much past that draw filed finish when done to apply a nice rust brown to it.
You can use 220grit backed up with the same file (to keep the flats,,flat) if you want to smooth out the file marks a bit more if you want to.
Sounds like a nice project going to a worthy recipient..

[Hungry Horse]

 I'd try some chemical strippers, before I stared draw filing anything. Navel Jelly, or a mild bath of Muriatic acid, will remove most finishes.

                      Hungry Horse

[Bill-52]

I would agree with HH.  I've used naval jelly with good results.  Not knowing what exactly is on the barrel now, if the naval jelly doesn't work, then draw file.  You didn't mention if the barrel flats and edges need work anyway.  If they do, and the naval jelly works, the draw filing might be easier.

Bill

[TMerkley]

Give it a bath in Muratic acid or use Lemon or Orange Juice.  Then rinse with water to neutralize and let it dry.  Once the metal is clean of oils, it will rust rather quickly.  Neutralize it.  You may be able to plug the boar and nipple and let it sit in a pvc pipe with water.  Then pull it out and let it oxidize.  You can use a saltwater on it as well. 

[Dogshirt]

I'll second the Naval Jelly. It removes all sorts of finishes.

[moleeyes36]

I'd go with the suggestions of using a caustic solution to remove some, if not all, the finish.  But like stated before, make sure you seal the bore to keep it out of there.  Also, TC Renegades have holes drilled and tapped for the rear sight and the under barrel rib.  You would be well served to melt a little wax into those holes to protect the threads from whatever caustic you use.

Use the draw file and sand paper to finish up the job.

 

[Michigan Flinter]

 I have bead blasted several barrels then blow off the dust and apply your browning  make sure you use a clean pair of cotton gloves so that you don't get any finger prints on the bead blasted metal. Good luck.

[B.Habermehl]

 Either draw file the barrel or sand the old finish off using 150 grit paper glued to a wood block. You can go as coarse as 100 grit. I have cleaned off a couple of nasty finish jobs both ways.  While filling or sanding I do not touch the barrel with my bare hands at all. As a result I have never needed to degrease a barrel or other part before browning. Once the barrel is filed and or sanded I apply the browning agent and put it into my browning cabinet. BJH

[alyce-james]

Gentlemen; I'm thinking the use of a file-card should have been mentioned as a method of cleaning one's new file while draw filing a barrel. I'm not one to "kick" a file on the side of a vice to keep the tool clean. AJ.

[mr. no gold]

Phosphoric acid does a good job of removing surface finishes. It is not as fast as the other acids and it is kinder to the metal unless you let it get away from you. It is also less damaging environmentally. I don't like breathing muriatic or naval jelly or some of the other agents. Old fashioned vinegar will do the trick as well, but takes a long, long time. Good luck with your project.
Dick

[kutter]

Gentlemen; I'm thinking the use of a file-card should have been mentioned as a method of cleaning one's new file while draw filing a barrel. I'm not one to "kick" a file on the side of a vice to keep the tool clean. AJ.

Just a tap of the side edge at the tip of the file against the vise to drop the fresh filings from the teeth. Once every couple of trips down the work keeps the file clear.
No harm in that. You don't use the edge nor the side at the tip to file anything w/a draw file anyway. That's where your other hand goes.
No harm to the vise, it's a bigboy piece of iron and it ain't  Shop Beautiful, at least here it's not.
You hammer on it all the time anyway making other stuff.
If the file actually needs to be cleaned because it's clogged & scoring the work because you didn't kick it clean on the side of the vise,,then use a file card. Or better yet a brass cartridge case flattened out. They make a better file cleaner than those helpless wire cards anyway.
Keeps the work moving along nicely.

[Blue Dog]

Thank you all for the suggestions. Going to try Naval Jelly first and if that fails go with the draw file. and sand paper. Will keep you all informed as the work progresses.

[EC121]

If you don't want to tap the file on the vise, load the file with chalk before filing.  It won't pick up the metal filings.

[greybeard]

Put the barrel into a strong solution of boric acid. Remove about every 6 hrs and rub down with med. steel wool. Should be clean in 2 says or so.
     Degrease the metal first helps.
    Nice to not be dealing with toxic cemicals.
          Bob