Hardening a lock plate?

[pushboater]

After drilling, tapping, soldering, etc....are lock plates normally hardened to reduce wear around the tumbler? If so, what is the proper procedure?

Capt. David

[Hungry Horse]

You can't harden them if you did any soldering, because the hardening process involves heating the part, and quenching it.

                   Hungry Horse

[pushboater]

What was I thinking. I guess I just needed someone to remind me. Getting old isn't any fun.

Capt. David

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

It occurs to me, though I have never done it, that the wear area is around the tumbler hole, so why not simply case harden that area.  With an oxy/acet torch and some Kasenit or some such, one could heat sink the area soldered - I assume the pan - and harden just the hole and its vacinity.  Or harden that area alone first, then solder on the pan, again protecting the cased area with a heat sink.

[LRB]

  I have wondered about the many lock plates that are of 4140 steel. They can be hardened to around 58 Rc without case hardening. Then tempered back to a  working hardness of 55 Rc.  Better than nothing maybe?

[ironwolf]

  Aren't most commercial locks made of 8620? 

  K

[Bob Roller]

The plates and hammers and top jaws usually are 8620.
In years past,they might be anything. I have tried to
straighten lock plates and had the shatter like glass.
I still prefer to make my own percussion lock plates but
a flint plate would be expensive.

Bob Roller

[T*O*F]

I still prefer to make my own percussion lock plates but
a flint plate would be expensive.

Only if it had a non-removable pan.

[Bob Roller]

TOF,
Still a PITA.Been there done that 50 years ago.

Bob Roller