bandsaw blades

[Brian Jordan]

What size and T.P.I blade do you guns run on your saws for roughing out your maple stock blanks? I am running a 14"  ¾ h.p. bandsaw with 93½" blade length at 2700 fpm.

Thanks
Brian

[Kermit]

This is what resides on my 14" bandsaw most of the time. More teeth and narrower are a waste on a bandsaw, IMHO.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

[caliber45]

Brian -- The blade on my Craftsman bandsaw (80-inch blade) had gotten so dull it smelled like burning wood when I cut stock blanks. Went to Lowe's, which had the right length, but only 6 tpi (teeth per inch). Result: cut fast, but the surfaces looked like a mini-washboard. Finally found a Sears store with wider selection, purchased a 14 tpi blade, and am MUCH happier with it. Lots less sanding required. Quarter-inch width on the blade allows good curve cutting in the buttplate area.

[Keb]

I have a couple saws I use for hard woods. I just broke a  1/2" wide X 6 TPI on my Craftsman 14" bandsaw cutting hedge (osage orange). :/ It has been on there a good 3 years and has cut much wood.

[Hungry Horse]

 On my old 10" Delta Homecraft saws, I use a 1/4" blade 10 teeth per inch. I have had poor results with skip tooth blades, and the wider blades aren't very good for making tight turns. I have also cut out trade gun buttplates, and side plates, in 1/8" brass with this saw/blade combination. I have also cut Catlinite for peace pipes with these blades.

                         Hungry Horse

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I am with Kermit. This is what is on mine... does a great job!

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

[Brian Jordan]

Kermit and Dr. Boone, do you have any trouble cutting curves with the ½" blade mentioned? Just asking since this blade is designed for re-sawing purposes.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I have used it for sawing excess wood from blanks almost to final size and it has worked around all the curves I have needed........that being said, it isn't a scroll saw.  

[Hank*in*WV]

A 1/2" blade also makes it easier to cut those long straight lines. Hold a stone to the two back edges of the blade to break the edge to help make turns.

[Brian Jordan]

A 1/2" blade also makes it easier to cut those long straight lines. Hold a stone to the two back edges of the blade to break the edge to help make turns.

That is a good idea Hank! Dr Boone, Kermit....everyone, thanks for the replys. I will have to order one of these blades.

[Kermit]

M-dad, and others:

Here's a link to some useful information on bandsaw blades.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/2484/Band_Saw_Blades_101.html

Most folks buy blades with too many TPI and way too narrow. You need to match the blade not only to the radius of the curves expected to be cut, but to the thickness of the material as well. There is a wealth of info here. Take a look at the charts. Print them and save them. With the right blades a bandsaw is a most useful tool. Novices tend to buy skinny blades with lots of teeth and learn to hate their saw. I know fine woodworking pros who work with a bandsaw and maybe a lathe as their only power machines. Too many start with a tablesaw. NO ONE should EVER own a radial arm saw.

[Dogshirt]

I own 2 radial arm saws and they are MOST useful tools. The only reason to have problems with one is not knowing how to use it.