Author Topic: Finish for Ash  (Read 5390 times)

Scott Semmel

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Finish for Ash
« on: January 16, 2009, 05:34:18 PM »
I am not really brand new to the forum, I was a member for a number of years but drifted away for a while. I relapsed into old addictions, falling block single shots and dbl shotguns. I have built six rifles not counting TC & CVA kits (the cva kits should count what a pain they where) I am not overly PC sensitive and have modest to poor talent at both shooting and building but I keep trying.I am almost a neighbor of Roger Fisher and have gone to a few of his shoots, my purpose there was to save someone else from being the worst shot there and to donate some $ to the club. I have done Walnut, Cherry and Maple this is my first Ash stock. The open pores in the spring wood look like they are going to be a challenge to fill, the wood is dense and heavy and I plan to use aqua fortis for stain. Any and all hints/suggestions about finishing Ash socks are welcome,thanks

Daryl

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2009, 07:23:57 PM »
Scott- I've never built a rifle using ash, but have built a couple bows with it. The early wood (spring wood)  being very soft and spongy makes staining at the cross-grain a bit touchy - maybe.  I suggest a very light stain if you do stain it, as a dark one might show up ugly dark lines - liek those ugly curly maple blanks- just kidding. Not sure what will happen - maybe have to do some tests.

I'd finish it with True Oil or Permalyn.  I've become used to using LinSpeed in the early days, and now True Oil for the last 25 years or so and it's always been a good, tough finish. Anyone having trouble with True Oil usually doesn't let the first coat become hard before applying more.  2 days isn't too long, 3 is better depending on humidity and temp, then it's 2 coats a day after that- sand down to the wood after about 6 to 7 coats, then 4 really thin ones to finish.  Rubbing with rotten-stone will give a nice soft glow.

keweenaw

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2009, 10:48:33 PM »
I would be tempted to use a wood filler if I were doing an ash stock.  You can buy a small can at most paint stores and dye it dark or buy a can of black filler from Jim Chambers.  Stain first, then apply the filler, probably a couple coats, wiping it all off the surface just filling the pores.  Then use your finish of choice.  Using the filler will save having to put on about 20 coats of finish and lots of sanding which is what would be necessary to fill those pores with finish alone.

Tom

docwhite

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2009, 05:41:11 AM »
I have finished several ash stocked rifles over the years. I find the contrasting softness-hardness of the wood and the open pores very dificult to fill with filler and varnish. I have had best success with a plain natural oil finish, many coats well soaked in and hand rubbed daily over a week or two until dry. The best such oil is sold by Track of the Wolf as 'Original Oil Finish'. I used Laurel Mountain stain under it, the 'Nut Brown'. The result is a very natural looking stock. the grain is left open, yes, but it looks good and is more than reasonably water resisitant. DOC

Offline elk killer

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2009, 06:16:09 AM »
is this the famous Dr. Gary White of Utah fame?..welcome aboard,,
only flintlocks remain interesting..

billd

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2009, 04:04:58 PM »
I am just starting an ash rifle and was going to post on this same subject in the future.  I'm following with reat interest.

Several ash guns i've seen do not have the grain completely filled.

Bill

Daryl

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2009, 06:46:13 PM »
Billd - if you want to fill the grain, I suggest a building finish like True Oil. I know there are other finishes, but it can be put on rather thickly, but it runs. I put it on failry thin, and build with subsequent coats. Once the first coat is hard, you can apply 2 coats a day- 14 in a week, then sand back to the wood with 1,000 grit or finer- yes, finer. I use 1,500 grit. With a hard finish, the paper doesn't load up and it goes much more quickly than you would imagine.  You don't want to press hard and creat heat.  Once getting down to the tops of the grain, wipe the dust off with a damp rag, then hold to the light, so see if the surface is flat, no grain.  If flat, 3 or 4 very thin rubbed on coats finish the stock like a piano, IF you have rouge in a paste to polish. If not, a pumice rubbed finish will give a satin sheen.  0000 will scratch the finish.  I lerned this from sydney fo this forum.  He is an incredible stock maker/finisher.

Scott Semmel

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2009, 07:55:46 PM »
Thanks all, I'm not concerned about the dye color I will try various on scrap pieces of the blank to find the color I want. Daryl's suggestion sounds good to me. Where does one find 1000 grit paper? ok, I know ggogle. I have always used 0000 steel wool to rub back, paper probably doesn't drag the finish out of the pores your trying to fill as much a steel wool would. Tru oil and permalyn are the two finishes I have experience with and I was thinking it would take a bazillion coats of permalyn to fill the void.

California Kid

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2009, 08:08:12 PM »
Snyder-
Do you use a coat of sealer over the stain before using paste filler?
I tried staining then filler and  the color gets muddy.
Tried a coat of sealer over the stain, color stays good but the filler doesn't fill as well.
Whats the best method? This is English walnut but still porous.

billd

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Re: Finish for Ash
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2009, 10:55:00 PM »
1000 grit and finer can usually be bought at auto supply stores that specialize in body working supplies, paint, bondo, etc. I have 2000 here and thought I saw a reference to 6000 somewhere.

Bill