How much patch lube?

[Jerry V Lape]

This is not about spit patches.  It is about how much grease ,beeswax, tallow, crisco, etc works best for you as a patch lube?  In recent discussions and on black powder cartridge boards there are numerous formula put forward for the lube but haven't seen anything relating to the quantity of lube which works best.  What are you finding useful regarding the amount of lube you use? 

[mark esterly]

it has been my experience that less is more.  the more you slop on the patch the more fouling you'll have no matter what your formula.

[jamesthomas]

 When I use Tracks Mink Oil I rub in just enough to start showing on through the other side.

[necchi]

I'm with Mark,
I keep'm on the dry side.

But it really runs the full gamete from dry too dripping. There are simply too many human variables to recommend or say what works best.
Folks have different goals and expectations. Some want to shoot pop cans at 20yrds all day, some only want to hit a pie plate once at 100yrds, and others cut X's on paper.

It's been my experience that accuracy is best attained with dry tight patches, but the same tends to leave a bore that needs extra care for continued shooting. Wetter patches leave the bore in a condition that can allow shooting many shot's without complication, but fine target accuracy suffers.

So asking how much lube by itself can't be answered unless you have specific goals.

[smylee grouch]

I like to experiment with each load but consistantly getting the same amount once you find the right ammount is equaly important for good grouping.

[Daryl]

Interesting theories on accuracy and fouling. My experience differs somewhat from some.  My .40, .45 shoot perfectly well (X's (1/2" groups) off bags at 50 yards) and .69 shoot amazingly well X's at 100yards and wonderful, and has given me many sub 3" groups at 200yards - all with dripping wet patches - oil or water based - same with Taylor's short range (100yard) long rifles and his long range rifle, the .62 Hawken - was there for his initial sighting in target - 2 1/2" for 5 shots - almost as good as my .69 - HA!.  The point of this is, we've always used wet patches as they reduce the amount of fouling - ie: when you load the next one, you effectively clean the last one. 

With dry patches, you'll have to wipe often which for us is too often which is something we prefer not to have to do. I find combinations that are still not tight enough to be accurate, will still allow shooting all day without having to be wiped.

 

[hanshi]

Interesting as I lean toward wetter and do just fine....for me, that is.

[moleeyes36]

I like to experiment with each load but consistantly getting the same amount once you find the right ammount is equaly important for good grouping.

That's exactly the answer.  You use the amount of patch lube that gets you the best accuracy with that load and stay with it.  The amount of patch lube that works best in a gun with a particular patch and ball combination may very well not work the best with another patch and ball combination in that gun.  A serious shooter makes the effort to find out what works best and goes with that.  There is no "One size fits all" solution.   

[Gene Carrell]

I tend to load on the 'wet' side. Doing so increases the number of shots (perhaps infinitely) between any swabbing necessitated by caked fouling. My experience has been best if no cleaning between shots is necessary. The only exception are my long range guns, the Rigby and Whitworth. They require swab and dry between shots for the pp bullets or the grease-groove bullets due to not being tight enough to clean on loading.

[Jerry V Lape]

Reason I asked the question was to determine what the trends were in grease lubes for hunting loads, not the sloppy wet ones for target/range use.  Clearly should have stated my question more accurately.   Of course the answer has to include adjustments for specific rifle, patch, powder and ball, but there should be some trends.  It seems reasonable to find the trends collectively versus each of us having to experiment through the infinite possibilities.  So please help with what you have learned is most accurate with your grease loads and how much grease is applied  and method of application?  Examples might be patches with melted grease poured over both sides, brushed onto one side, a daub smeared on one side, light coating one side, threads filled one or both sides, etc.    

[moleeyes36]

For deer and hog hunting in a warmer climate like we have here in Florida, a thin paste of olive oil and bee's wax applied to one side of the patch has been a good hunting lube for me.  For hunting in colder climates this might become too hard to use easily.  I'm sure some of the people here that hunt in colder climates will have suggestion for you if that's your situation.   

[necchi]

 So please help with what you have learned is most accurate    

That's easy,
it's the system from Dutch.
This will be the most important $20 you will ever spend in your search for an accurate load that will work in any climate,, match shooting,, and any hunting situation you can possibly think of.
(Period)
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

[Daryl]

When I hunted moose with the .69, I ran a card wad down onto the powder, then the patched ball. The patch was filled with Track's Mink Oil. When seated into the muzzle form the loading block, it left a ring of lube around the muzzle, which was very easily wiped off with a finger.  Accuracy in that rifle was not dependent on the load, that is, 165gr. 2f GOEX shot equally well and to the sights, water-wet patch or oil. The smaller bores are usually fussy, demanding separate loads and sometimes sighting as well.

[Scout]

I like them pretty wet when I'm target shootin for reasons already mentioned. I'm fixin to go hog hunting in 2 weeks and will use a 20% lanolin mixed with beeswax lube as I'll usually have some time before I get my first shot off. A wet patch is too risky to be left in on the charge as I don't know how long it will be before I shoot. I've never used a wet patch hunting so I don't know for sure but I don't want a misfire when the time comes so I'll stick with the other stuff when I'm in the woods.

Skip

[Topknot]

I will second what necchi said about the Dutch shultz system. I purchased his system many years ago and I havent looked back. Try it.  

                                                                                                topknot

[mark esterly]

I mostly use oil from animal fat with enough bees wax mixed in to make it about the consistency of finishing wax.  a quick swipe of one side of the patch does the job