There are several builders (Taylor Sapergia, Fred Lehto, Lucky RA for examples) here who know more about Bucks county guns and Verners in particular but you should be very clear about what you want before you start. If you want an oval shaped wrist wider than high, or a round wrist with the bottom flattened, for example. The long wrist of a Verner can continue to blend into the buttstock on the patchbox side with the roundness carrying back a ways. Of course in all builds the buttplate defines a great deal of the architecture of the buttstock. I establish my top (comb) and bottom (toe) lines carefully just leaving a tad for removal as everything needs cleaning up at the end. Keep your pencil "center" lines intact. Draw the toe lines and the comb lines on the top and bottom of the roughed buttstock. Then I shape the patchbox side of the buttstock to meet the toe and comb. This may not be the right way to do it but I need to get the shape of that side right before tackling the cheek piece side. Anyway on the PB side you want a flat for inletting the patchbox and everything to flow from the buttplate through the wrist, so I tend to work from the buttplate forward. Getting the cheek piece right is a whole nother deal since you can't flow the whole thing forward from the buttplate. That's why having the PB side done helps me visualize what I want "under" the cheek piece and then the cheek piece should flow down into that at the front, and rest above it at the rear. Different story for a Berks county gun which will be more "pregnant" and bulge a little bit forward of the buttplate.
A lot of jabber. Sometimes we go by feel and don't think about the steps.
