Quick question regarding antler powder measures

[Elnathan]

Is there a way to figure out how far the pith goes down an antler tine?  I picked up a piece of antler from the pet store a couple days ago that is just about the perfect size for a measure, but while it is more or less round at the thick end, it gets pretty oval-shaped about halfway down. I'd like to round it off a bit to get a more pleasing shape, but don't want to break into the pith. It is about 4 and 1/2" long and about 5/8" in diameter.

[gizamo]

Seems like the more I attack the shape...the less even the final finish.  Guess it depends on the antler, if it is well seasoned or fresh,  etc.

Only one way to find out.   

Giz

[trentOH]

Only one way to find out.   

Giz

Yep. Take it to your dentist for an x-ray.

[Kermit]

I was going to suggest an MRI.

[EC121]

Drill it all the way through and make a wooden plug. 

[gizamo]

Just go with what you have. Drill it and make it funnel shaped inside to get the grains you want. File decorate it and make it please your eye. Have fun with the shape.

You'll need good music...to listen to.

[skillman]

I'm with Giz on this. I always  finish the inside before I start on the outside. That way you know what you have to work with.

Steve

[Artificer]

I agree with others that you want to bore/grind out the pith and see what volume you have in the measure.  Then, if after getting rid of the pith you find you don't have enough volume, you drill/bore more into the solid material.

I don't know about others, but I don't want "open pith" inside my measure as powder will stick and not give a uniform charge.  Now the pith can be sealed off using crazy glue or Minwax's wood sealer, but that sort of defeats the attempt at authenticity of using the antler measure.  Such problems then probably were the reason that tinned iron measures were so popular back then.

Gus

[whitebear]

  Now the pith can be sealed off using crazy glue or Minwax's wood sealer, but that sort of defeats the attempt at authenticity of using the antler measure.  Such problems then probably were the reason that tinned iron measures were so popular back then.

Gus

[/quote]

use bees wax

[Artificer]

use bees wax

Well, I guess that's a bit of a "DUH" for me, eh?  GRIN.  Never thought about that.  Would the bees wax melt in summer sun?  I don't know, I'm just asking.
Gus

[WadePatton]

not the beeswax I've been fooling with.  It melts around 150-160F, a bit more than paraffin candle wax.  an uncomfortable bit.  keep it off your skin when it's melty. 

[skillman]

You can use wax to get a large measure to the exact charge you want it to be. If you want more, just melt it out and start over. I've not had any problems when I use paraffin. I'm afraid bees wax may be a little soft in very hot weather. Maybe if you used a mix.

Steve

[necchi]

Don't try an fill it with Tru Oil and let it stand a few minutes to "seal" it.
The stuff will bleed right through to the exterior of the antler.

I learned that the hard way.

[LRB]

  How about cutlers resin? Resin, beeswax, and a bit of filler such as ash, brick dust, saw dust. Dries hard, and is water resistant. It would with stand most any heat it would ever encounter.

[Artificer]

  How about cutlers resin? Resin, beeswax, and a bit of filler such as ash, brick dust, saw dust. Dries hard, and is water resistant. It would with stand most any heat it would ever encounter.

Good point.  I bet that would work.
Gus

[Artificer]

Don't try an fill it with Tru Oil and let it stand a few minutes to "seal" it.
The stuff will bleed right through to the exterior of the antler.

I learned that the hard way.

GOOD info.  I always have Tru Oil around, but never tried it on antler.  Now I'll be sure NOT to use it.
Gus

[michaelB.]

I made a priming horn out of some elk horn and I could see pretty well where it was going to be soft.  The pithy center looks porous (if nice and dry) and is softer than the bony part.  Once I got it cleaned out to my satisfaction, I put it in an old toaster oven (not the one in the house, or I'd be dead now) at about 250 degrees for about 4 hrs.  That completely dried it out and it didn't stink too bad.  Now I have a great priming horn, home made and original to me and my needs.

[Elnathan]

Thank you gentlemen. I thought that the most likely answer would be "clean out the pith and see what you have," but I though I'd ask anyway.

I really like the suggestion of using cutler's rosin to alter the charge if the cavity is too large.