Don't ever!

[Roger Fisher]

Thats right don't ever use a wood dowel as a punch to punch out that tumbler to remove the hammer.  You will have just a devil of a time to fish the wood out of the threads so you can get the hammer screw back in.   

We learn something new (or do something dumb) near every day

[Ky-Flinter]

How true, Roger, how true!  Experience is something you get right after you needed it.

-Ron

[jim m]

thanks so very much Roger, it's so refreshing to know I'm not the only screw up on the planet

[Ephraim]

Roger next time try taking a round punch and grind flats on the end just undersize of the hole in the hammer see if that works.
Ephraim

[Roger Fisher]

Roger next time try taking a round punch and grind flats on the end just undersize of the hole in the hammer see if that works.
Ephraim

Yes, I have one such somewhere!

[Benedict]

What about the Cock Puller that Mike Lea sells?  How well does it work?

Bruce

[omark]

might try using a small round punch that fit inside the cock screw hole and bottoms out   

[rich pierce]

I just back the screw off 2 turns and smack the screw head hard with a mallet.

[Benedict]

might try using a small round punch that fit inside the cock screw hole and bottoms out  

The risk of that is if the tumbler hole is drilled too close to the bottom of the tumbler, you can break out the other side of the tumbler.  Then you have to get a new tumbler.  You want to be sure that if you are using a punch, you put it on the square portion of the tumbler shaft.

Bruce

[Levy]

I've used the method that richpierce mentions, but would caution you not to use the tumbler screw because it has too large a head and if mis-struck the head is easy to break off.  I've used one of the smaller internal screws with the same thread size and have never had a problem.  I usually use a rawhide mallet and hold the lock in my left hand while striking the screwhead.  the smaller screw will usually pass through the lockplate along with the tumbler.  The screw should be turned in tight before striking.  One or two sharp raps usually does it.

James Levy   

[t.caster]

I've got a  philips screw driver I gound the point off until it had a square end. Kinda cross shaped, that works nice. Also use a brass rod with four flats filed on it that fits inside the square hole in the cock.
Yah, I snapped the large head off one of those cock screws once too!
Live n learn!

[Stophel]

I make mine with slightly tapered shafts and matching square hole in the cock, so when it's tight, it's tight, but it doesn't have to be driven off the whole length.   I knock them loose with a blank screw (or whatever I can find) that just fits inside the square hole in the cock.  I do not stick anything in the threaded hole, or use the screw to knock it loose, as I'm afraid of bunging up the threads.

[Tim Crosby]

 You mean it's not supposed to work that way? I thought it was just part of the procedure

Tim C.

[J.D.]

I just back the screw off 2 turns and smack the screw head hard with a mallet.

Did that once on an L&R lock, and stripped the threads in the tumbler. Maybe I was too heavy handed, but I have used the square drift with real good success...and not stripped a thread since. 

[Blackpowder Barbie]

Hi guys, I know this topic has been covered before, but since the thread is on going I'll post the official Chambers/Siler Lock statement on removing a tumbler. 

Never pry it off whether using a screw driver or a tumbler puller.  When it breaks, and it will, it will always void the warranty on the part.  The tumbler's axle is slim and has a hole drilled in it - thus it will crack and will break if any angled force is applied. 

We also don't recommend inserting anything into the screw hole to push it out.  Once again if the tumbler has a tight fit to the hammer, as it should, the force being applied to remove it is applied at the bottom of the hole, thus leaving the axle shaft still tight bound in the hammer.  The push out pressure it applied in the wrong spot typically resulting in a broken axle.

I can understand using a screw that fits the hole, but if the threads are not a pure fit, you run the risk of buggering the threads.

So, how do we recommend removing one... by setting the lock over an open vise, with the tumbler hanging between the jaws.  Then using a punch that rests on the top SQUARE of the axle, not in the hole, hit the punch with a swift whack.  This applies the removing force down the through the whole axle shaft and out into the tumbler body.  It also avoids any unintentional angled movement.  I have taken several photos to demonstrate...





hope this helps...

[Dphariss]

I just back the screw off 2 turns and smack the screw head hard with a mallet.

That or use an arbor press. Depends oh now tight the fit is.
I bend a screw sometimes, I don't use the cock screw but a longer one with a small head, but never hurt a tumbler I can remember.

Dan

[tg]

" I'm afraid of bunging up the threads"

I believe the PC/HC nomenclature for damaging the threads on a part  of a lock is "buggering", "bunging" an item is in reference to causeing damage to the hole or plug on a wooden whiskey keg