fillers

[thecapgunkid]

I asked this question in another post.  This is really my first post so I am a little clumsy in navigating. I bought a real Frankenrifle to re-build because I am lacking too much to build one from scratch.  Besides, the shoemaker instinct in me would rather re-make something right. I have two questions I have not yet found an answer for;
1. The octagon to round, .54 cal barrel is marked l. Reeb and the lock has a bronze or brass lock plate.  Anybody familiar with those?
2. I will need some wood filler around the rear thimble because I can't avoid that in re-setting it.  I remember two gents named Ray Palmucci and Nathan McKenzie (that I should have stayed in touch with...my bad...over the last thirty years) once speaking with me about making it out of glue, stain and rifle sawdust leftovers. How do you do this and how do you  and how do you not use it?

OK...three questions...I don't count so well...

3.  The lock area has too much wood removed albeit still shoot-able. I can Kluge small pieces of wood to reinforce it, but is there a better way to do that?  Say a mold-able compound I can use in the cavity?

Thanks

Don't Shoot Yore Eye Out, Kid
The Capgun KId
The Still River Cordwainer
Greg Geiger

[Majorjoel]

Hi Kid and welcome to the forum. My best answer for your filler question is that the best "filler" for wood is wood itself. Being a fairly easy medium to shape and form, it will give you the best look as well. My suggestion is to find a piece of wood that will match up with your stock. Cut out the problem section in a square or rectangular form removing as small amount as you can get away with. Using a new close matching piece, cut in the same form as your opening, glue in place. Make sure your patch piece follows the grain flow of the area of repair.  Once the glue has set well you can continue with the detail work needed.

[rich pierce]

Agree 100%.  Filler will always stick out and catch the eye immediately.

[Captchee]

 as the others said . the best filler is wood .
 if the  inletting is as bad as what you say , I would  re slab the mortise vs. placing small slivers of wood around the lock .
 Out in my shop I have an original SXS stock that I use for a template . Both of the mortises have  had slabs inlet into the mortise and the locks re inlet .  Despite the age one the stock   its still very clear  that whom ever did it , did a real nice job   

[B.Habermehl]

It is best to post pictures of the areas you intend to improve. Then we can more intelligently advise you of a good course of repair. BJH

[Jerry V Lape]

I have learned through several attempts that the success in splicing in new wood is very diligent shaping of both the old and new wood to produce a very tight seam.  An indifferent fit will produce just another mess to correct.  Matching up grain and especially curl is interesting work too.

[thecapgunkid]

Thanks, folks.  Right now it looks like I have to use fillers because the areas under question are small and, in the case of the rear thimble and ramrod channel entry, structurally such that I don't want to remove any more wood.

ON top of all this, the original maker elected to route out a ramrod groove that ended up short  rather than drill it all the way, so I will be reinforcing that area with a tube and a lot of poxy

Thanks again and,

Don't shoot yore eye out, kid
Greg Geiger
The Capgun Kid