Author Topic: stropping tools  (Read 3655 times)

Offline thecapgunkid

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1106
  • Matthew 25:40
stropping tools
« on: February 17, 2014, 04:29:28 PM »
I read the dated topic by E.Smith but was told to start a new one because of the other topic's age.  What I know from nuthin' because I am new to the forum?

Anyway, one of the best lesson learned in my shoemaking and saddlemaking career was to take another step beyone stropping.  Using a wheel at 1700 rpm or less, whether electric or foot powered, with a little common rouge will yield a polished blade.

Nothing dulls a blade like cutting leather, and I have already found in trying to restore my recently bought Frankenrifle that it also works on wood.

Once your blade is sharp, and you are pretty sure most of the burrs are gone, use a light hand to polish the blade.  Stay on the plane of the blade and don't apply too much pressure.  I poo-pooed it unitl I tried it.

My old shoemaker master taught me that, when you can hear the grinding noise of your cut, whether on leather or wood, your blade is too dull.  Sure enough, being slow on the uptake, the noise of my blade or chisel cutting turned out to be like an alarm bell.

When I stepped back and paid attention to the blade, and when I went slowly, I stopped a lot of mistakes.  What a surprise.

Bad enough the wood on Frankenrifle is dry and chipped already, but I already made one mistake in inletting the rear thimble pipe while relieving some nasty chips.  Shoulda polished the blade, mate....


Don't shoot yore eye out, kid
Greg Geiger
The Capgun Kid

Offline KLMoors

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 859
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2014, 02:06:01 AM »
I use a paper wheel with rouge/compound on it and it is a very quick way to get an edge back up to razor sharp. It just takes a few seconds. I have it set up on the left hand end of my grinder all the time. I got mine from this guy:

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/paper.htm

Offline P.W.Berkuta

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2203
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2014, 06:17:31 PM »
I use a paper wheel with rouge/compound on it and it is a very quick way to get an edge back up to razor sharp. It just takes a few seconds. I have it set up on the left hand end of my grinder all the time. I got mine from this guy:

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/paper.htm

Very interesting --- I bet if you have a lathe, some MDF, white glue, some grit, and some "smarts" -- well you get the picture ;).
"The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it." - Chinese proverb

Offline Acer Saccharum

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 19311
    • Thomas  A Curran
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2014, 06:34:47 PM »
I make blocks of hardwood, shaped to the inside of my gouges. Load them up with diamond compound, and strop on the draw. I finish with a light buff with rouge on a felt wheel. There are probably better ways, but it's what I have. The buffing makes a big difference.
Tom Curran's web site : http://monstermachineshop.net
Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

Sawatis

  • Guest
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2014, 07:01:35 PM »
I use a paper wheel with rouge/compound on it and it is a very quick way to get an edge back up to razor sharp. It just takes a few seconds. I have it set up on the left hand end of my grinder all the time. I got mine from this guy:

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/paper.htm
Yeah, Woodcraft sells this system...needs a very light touch!
The MDF suggestion intrigues me...I could see how you could groove and round to get some pretty fast lapps. I knew a woodcarver who had about a 8 inch stretch of leather wheels (all pressed together on a bar running through pillow blocks with a variety of different sweeps cut into the "drum...it was about a 6 inch diameter by 8 inch long cylinder if you ca picture it....this guy was ancient and trained in an apprentice program in Bavaria in the 1920's ...man could he carve!
John

Offline KLMoors

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 859
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2014, 02:08:10 AM »
I used some coarse sandpaper and sanded the outer edge of the paper wheel into a small radius. This allows me to quickly touch up a gouge, but it is not a perfect profile.

Offline Cory Joe Stewart

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1866
    • My etsy shop
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2014, 06:26:30 PM »
I've used Wallace Gussler's method seen in his carving film.  I have a piece of thick leather, thick enough to get the shape of my gouges into it.  When cutting and make a pass in the leather fairly often. 

Coryjoe

Offline jerrywh

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8885
    • Jerrywh-gunmaker- Master  Engraver FEGA.
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2014, 08:53:24 PM »
After doing this for over 50 years I don't get much new info of any value any more but once in a while I get a great little piece of info on this site. I have found that Acer Saccharum's method of putting the final touch on carving tools far exceeds any other method I have tried. Why , Because when you strop on leather or anything soft it changes the angle on the cutting tip.  It may seem insignificant to the naked eye but in my opinion it is not.  As you know I am an engraver and I have I always examine my gravers and carving tools under a microscope for flaws.  When you change the heel on a cutting tool even for a few thousands in length it makes a lot of difference how they perform.  Hardwood shaped stroping greatly eliminates the effect of changing the heel angle. Just a few passes on a leather strop and you have a 45 or 50 ° tool rather than a 30° cutting tool. My advise is always check the cutting tool under the most magnification you can. You be surprised how ragged they might be when you think they are sharp. Diamond compound is superior, but not necessary.
  Most hand engravers do not use a heel o hand push gravers. At least they say they don't.
 After thay grind the tool they usually strop the belly of  the graver to polish it. Unknowingly this puts a micro heel on the graver. Although it may only be .001" long the metal reacts to it.  This same pricipal applies to any cutting tool.  http://jwh-flintlocks.net/master-logo.jpg
« Last Edit: February 20, 2014, 08:55:59 PM by jerrywh »
Nobody is always correct, Not even me.

Offline LRB

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1567
    • WICK ELLERBE
Re: stropping tools
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2014, 09:17:13 PM »
   Jerry is correct about a soft strop. It will cause a slight roll to the edge. Another thing about sharpening is that, believe it or not, dry sharpening on wheels micro burns the edge and removes the temper at the very edge, and is counter productive to a long lasting razor edge. Even dry sharpening on a stone by hand will do this.