Author Topic: RB mould repair kit (Read 9474 times)

dlbarr · « **on:** February 23, 2014, 02:36:15 AM »

I have a .490 RB mould provided by TC probably 35 yrs ago +/-. The screw which holds on the spru-cutter snapped off so I need to get a new one of those. I think a "repair kit" contains the screw, lock washer, spru cutter & set screw....

Q: The original box says the the part # for this mould is 735, however the mould has stamped on it 359(?) It seems I recall that TC moulds were actually mf'd by Lyman. Does anybody know where I might get such a repair kit? Can't imagine that these things are generic given thread sizes and all....

Any guidance will be appreciated. Thanks.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn176/dlbarr1955/TCMould_zps9ab1229c.jpg

Artificer · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2014, 08:57:25 PM »

Please don't consider this criticism of you, but if you only need the screw, why try to buy a repair kit that may no longer be available? Do you know what thread size the screw is? If not, do you know a local machinist or a Shop Teacher in a High School who can help you figure out what size you need?
Gus

smokinbuck · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2014, 09:39:53 PM »

I agree with Gus. Even if the screw is broken off in the mold you should be able to extract it without hurting the threads. If you do, go one size larger.
Mark

Clark Badgett · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2014, 09:59:46 PM »

Unless the bolt was bottomed hard in the hole, it should be quite easily removed. Get yourself a 3-4" piece of steel rod, about 1/8-1/4" in diameter and grind a long sharpened point on it. Clamp the mold in a vise, enough to hold it steady. Take a small ballpeen hammer and gently tap it out in a counter clockwise direction. Once out, take the mold half with the threaded hole to your local harware store and try bolts close in size until you have one that easily threads all the way in, and then buy one of appropriate length.

Habu · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2014, 10:06:40 PM »

I've re-built/repaired/tuned a lot of moulds over the years, and always obtained the screws from a hardware store. Just try a bunch of different machine screws til you find one that fits.

dlbarr · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2014, 01:56:47 AM »

Appreciate your input and your point is well made, however, this particular screw has an over sized shoulder that fits the spru cutter. I certainly could & would get a standard screw to replace the broken one if that's all that was required. Unfortunately, this is a special deal. The broken screw was simple to remove with an easy-out. Thanks again for you input.

Habu · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2014, 03:09:13 AM »

Just to be sure I wasn't mis-recomembering the set-up on a TC mould, I grabbed a few and checked. They either use a standard shoulder screw to hold the sprue plate down, or a machine screw with an unthreaded portion on which the sprue plate rotates. In both cases, a lock washer is placed between the sprue plate and the head of the screw. The screw from a Lyman repair kit is not the correct screw (no surprise, as it isn't always the correct screw for a Lyman mould either).

All that is required is to go to a decent hardware store, determine the thread size by trying different screws til you find one that fits, then get a shoulder screw in that thread size. Don't forget to get the lock washer to fit. Depending on the available selection of shoulder screws and the depth of the threads in the mould block, it may be necessary to trim the threaded portion of the screw to length.

dlbarr · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2014, 08:27:24 PM »

OK, I have a jpg file of the bolt and associated parts - if I can figure out how to include it in this post. I confess to never having seen such a "shoulder bolt" in a hardware store but I will certainly go look. Thanks.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2014, 01:16:48 AM »

The chance of finding a dedicated purpose shoulder bolt in a hardware
store are about the same as getting run over by a pre war Mercedes
while crossing the street to get to the hardware store.I made a bunch
of kits to make a better mould out of the large and small and double cavity
Lyman moulds and made new shoulder screws for them and made the long enough to
compensate for the lock washers or bell washers they used.

Bob Roller

dlbarr · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2014, 01:22:31 AM »

Thanks Bob, that's exactly what I thought but didn't want to argue with those who may know more about these things, therefore I was willing to go look next time at Lowe's or True Value.

Since you have made such hardware, what's my chance of buying a small supply from you? I expect I should provide thread dimensions, etc...

Habu · « **Reply #10 on:** February 25, 2014, 05:01:53 AM »

When one of the local gun shops went out of business in 1992 or so, I cleaned them out of the "spare parts kits" TC provided to dealers. The fittings (screws, washers, etc) are dimensionally-consistent with off-the-shelf hardware. When I wrote "decent hardware store", I had in mind something like Grainger or Fastenal: someplace where they don't give you a dumb look when you ask for a shoulder screw. I've never been in a "Lowe's", and it has been at least a decade since I was in a True Value.
During the years when I re-built/tuned moulds for folks, I handled a lot of moulds. TC's and RCBS's weren't bad, Shiloh's were OK, Lyman's were dimensionally all-over-the-map (no surprise given the duration of production by Ideal and then Lyman). Hoch moulds were things of beauty, and usually just needed to be cleaned.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2014, 07:35:45 PM »

Did you get the broken of screw out? It may be difficult because the grub screw probably mess up the threads. I would put in a new sprew plate pivot hole with the hole diagonally across from the old one. The mould would then be used by turning it 180-degrees int he handles. Then make a new sprew plate out of aluminum. I would use a socket head cap screw, washer, and lock washer to keep tension on the washer.

Those old TC moulds are no wonder of presission engineeering, IMHO. Probably not worth the time to rescue.

If I lacked the skills and materials to do the above I would just buy a Lee mould. Lee moulds work fine. You will probably spend less money on a new Lee than you spend fixing the old messed up TC mould.

dlbarr · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2014, 07:41:46 PM »

Scota4570, yes I was able to easily remove the broken screw. In terms of the mould's quality, I recognize it for what it is but frankly, I'm a hunter/plinker not a competitive shooter. So this mould actually satisfies my personal requirements. But if I have too many challenges coming up with the appropriate hardware, a Lee mould would be an economical alternative. Thanks.

BTW, I see by your handle you must shoot a 45/70. So do I...this is not the place for discussion but maybe a PM just to find out about your outfit.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2014, 08:10:53 PM »

dlbarr...I have a couple of T/;C molds in the cupboard. I'll take one apart and make your screw for you. Just send me an email to dtaylorsapergia@gmail.com with your contact into. like Jerry says...."no charge".

dlbarr · « **Reply #14 on:** February 25, 2014, 08:13:13 PM »

Taylor, you are very kind! Thank you, Sir.

PM on its way to you.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #15 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:20:31 PM »

Here's the new screw. I copied one from a T/C maxi mold...hope it's the same as yours. The thread is #10 x 32.

dlbarr · « **Reply #16 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:34:46 PM »

That looks like the very one to me. Thank you again!

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2014, 10:02:29 PM »

It's on its way Dave.

dlbarr · « **Reply #18 on:** February 27, 2014, 10:05:19 PM »

Many thanks, Taylor. Appreciate it very much.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2014, 10:09:32 PM »

You're as welcome as the flowers in May.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #20 on:** February 27, 2014, 10:10:46 PM »

I forgot to ask - does the mold still have the set screw on the side - to lock the big axle screw I'm sending you?

dlbarr · « **Reply #21 on:** February 27, 2014, 11:09:46 PM »

Yes, it does have the set screw.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #22 on:** February 28, 2014, 11:53:00 PM »

Great. Then you should be good to go when the new piece arrives. I sure hope it's the right one.

dlbarr · « **Reply #23 on:** March 04, 2014, 11:06:26 PM »

Taylor, rec'd the screw you made for this mould today. Perfect fit. Thank you again for your generosity.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #24 on:** March 05, 2014, 02:37:50 AM »

My pleasure. Once you have the tension set on the spue plate make sure the set screw is locked up good.

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Author Topic: RB mould repair kit (Read 9474 times)

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