before cutting does this looks right?

[mwhartma]

I got my stock blank from the Williamsburg show and was very happy with it, everyone there was very nice and helpful especially Dennis. Anyways I have the stock and I am ready to cut a rough the profile leaving me more than what the books say mainly because I'm using a hand saw. could you guys give me your thoughts and if I need to re draw something that is not a problem.
(I did not draw sharpie on the wood. I put that clear sticky shelving paper on the stock and then used an exacto knife to cut the excess of the stock, a little alcohol and its gone)



Any Advise is greatly appreciated.

[Acer Saccharum]

It's pretty hard to tell from a photo what's really going on.... but I beg your pardon if you already performed the steps below.

1) first, plan the lock location in relation to the touch hole in the barrel.

2) inlet the barrel, leaving enough length of pull waste to be able to shorten it later on

3) inlet the lock

4) locate trigger

5) now plan the stock layout, like you have drawn on the stock.

[David Rase]

From the photo, either the wrist looks long or the comb looks short.  As Acer stated, hard to tell what is going on from a photo.  Does not look like much drop at the heel either.  What style rifle are you building?  Looks Lancaster(ish) or York to me.
David

[Jim Kibler]

It would be a good idea to do a little more design work before cutting.  There are quite a number of issues.l.  It might help a lot to get a set of plans to work from.  This will give you the basics to start with.  Also, I would suggest reading some of the reference material available.  I started with Recreating the American Longrifle.

[Lucky R A]

    As both above have said the wrist looks way too long.  The other thing that jumped out is it looks like you are cutting away too much wood for you barrel inlet.  Remember you only want to cut away less than half of the height of the barrel, and leave a little extra for wibbles and wobbles if you are using a hand saw...
     Lay your barrel on your blank with the breech plug location marked.  Then lay your lay your lock in proper position in relation to the breech plug face.  Mark the location of the sear of your lock and sit your trigger into place.  You can now measure your length of pull and get your butt plate location.  Lay a straight edge along the top of the barrel that will extend back to the butt plate location.  Now measure about 2-3/4 -3" down from the bottom of the straight edge and this will be the top of your butt plate.  These are general dimensions, what fits you may vary somewhat from this, but it is a good starting point for lay out.  

Ron

[gunmaker]

Got a gun that fits you well ?  use it as a pattern, lot a mine are taken off an #870.  2-3/4" DAH & 13-1/2" to 14" LOP. Track wolf & others have full scale drawings as well.   Get a good builders book...Tom

[Don Getz]

All of the above, plus.   You have a vertical line drawn right where the breech end of the barrel would be, plus you have a line drawn
which looks like it would be in line with the BOTTOM of the barrel.  Stop whatever you are doing and DO NOT saw the blank on these
lines.  You should start the whole building phase of your gunbuilding by inletting the barrel into the stock, before you saw the whole
thing out.  After the barrel is inlet you can lay out the shape of the buttstock after determining the amount of drop you need at the
heel and at the front of the comb.............Don

[kaintuck]

bed that barrel in the big chunk of wood......that gives EVERYTHING its 'data line'....

take it slow....this ain't no race!

[mwhartma]

It's pretty hard to tell from a photo what's really going on.... but I beg your pardon if you already performed the steps below.

1) first, plan the lock location in relation to the touch hole in the barrel.

2) inlet the barrel, leaving enough length of pull waste to be able to shorten it later on

3) inlet the lock

4) locate trigger

5) now plan the stock layout, like you have drawn on the stock.

I havent inlet the Barrel yet, Im waiting for the lock to be delivered from Jim Chambers. I wasnt going to inlet the barrel untill I had some what of an idea of its final location. the doted line is my cut line ( should have explained that earlier).  


the butt drop is 1 3/4

I have a "blueprint" from track 1770 lancaster that ive been looking at and refrencing

[frogwalking]

What size barrel are you using?  The way the stock is drawn makes it look like  you have a huge barrel.  Most rifles do not have a vertical cut at the rear of the barrel, but are curved to look more graceful.  I know th is because I have done it wrong.

[mwhartma]

The barrel is a .50 15/16. I left the vertical line there for reference of the breech location

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Mike, this is more of a mind reading thread than anything.  My advice to you is to forget everything you've done so far and start at the beginning.  Use your blueprint - don't improvise.
And follow the advice of experienced builders who have given you straight up answers.

[mwhartma]

After getting your guys opinions, I have decided to not cut anything and to inlet my barrel and  then re-plan.  As gunmaker pointed out  my 870 fits me real nice and I'll look at how those dimensions work out on drawings. Thanks a lot guys I honestly think you guys kept me from making a costly mistake. I've always struggled with being to technical and really stubborn.

[Dphariss]

Taylor gave you some excellent advice. There are a number of errors and they have already be mentioned.
This is the lock area of a rifle I did a couple of years ago. It has a 1 1/4" barrel so the barrel is big. Drew the barrel, lock, and rod hole in before cutting. And it was redrawn a couple of times.


Dan

[Acer Saccharum]

Pencil mistakes are cheap.

Draw, then sleep on it. Next day revisit your idea. Oftentimes ideas hit me in my dreams, or reminders to check front lock screw location, trigger placement, etc.

[Rich]

I agree with what others have said. I would suggest getting "Recreating the American Longrifle".  I also find it a lot easier to draw the plan on paper, full size. Start with the barrel. Draw in where the breech plug ends in the barrel. Locate the vent liner in front of the breech plug. Now you know where the touch hole will be. I use a 1/8 inch web below the breech and the muzzle. Some use 3/16 below the breech. Draw that on the plan. The ramrod hole is drawn next, and an 1/8 inch of wood below that. Initally, leave extra wood on the bottom just in case the ramrod drill wanders. If you get some clear sheets you can make a full size copy of the lock you are using. The Track of the Wolf catalog is handy for that. Use the lock picture to locate the lock on your plan.  The touch hole defines where the pan will be. That in turn determines where the sear will be. That in turn determines where the trigger will be. If you know the trigger pull, you now know where the butt will be. If you're working off of a photo of a rifle you like, measure the photo and keep the same proportions. You can also blow the picture up to full size at a copy shop.  The wrist and butt can be drawn on the plan. Draw all that stuff on your plan. Once you have your plan, you can transfer it to the stock and then draw in where you will actually cut. For example, initial cut down for the breech of the barrel  is not made at the breech.  Get the book and it will walk you through the process.

[cmac]

I also agree with what others have said. To me it looks as though your barrel is too far forward.? What LOP are you going for?

[kaintuck]

2nd picture looks better......1st one would given you a humped  back rifle....Quasimodo!
Get the barrel in, 1/16 below the wood surface at the tang.....the do some more lay out lines....

Measure twice....cut once 

And....90% of that blank will be shaving on the shop floor...
Go slow...it ain't no race..
Marc

[flehto]

A lock position  determined from the TH location would determine the trigger location and then the rear of the  triggerguard grip rail would determine the comb rise  {wrist length} depending on the style.  A good "how to" book  is in order here....Fred

[wmrike]

The others are right about the comb being so far back (about 8" from the rear of the barrel).  Just to give you an idea, that is about what you would see on a Brown Bess, and they have to turn around and compensate for it by making the comb high.

[Ric27]

I guess that this is  you 1st rifle. You are to be commended for the courage to jump into such deep water on the first gun. So glad you sent in the photo, very smart. As mentioned get the book Recreating the Longrifle. There is one by a guy named Dixon that is good and much less complicated. I used them both on many of the first guns I built. They are worth the money. I also have a video by Pioneer Videos called building a Long rifle with Hershel House. That help a ton. What you are attempting is very difficult, that is building a rifle from scratch on your own. Please, get the books at least before you proceed. This forum can help a lot but not in the step by step manner the you need.   

[Mark Elliott]

You can bring your parts up to me in Mechanicsville,  and I can review your work before you cut.   We can make the first cut in my shop and get you ready for the next step, inletting the barrel.   Most any Saturday, including tomorrow,  would be fine.   

[davebozell]

Mark has also posted a very good writeup here on the proper order for building a long rifle.  That, along with the books and videos that have already been mentioned should help.  Don't pass up the offer that Mark is making.  His help will make your project much easier, and you will learn much faster.  There will be a lot less issues that you will have to sleep over.  Best of luck with your project.