Have I mentioned that I hate patchboxes?

[Curt Larsen]

OK, 2-piece brass patchboxes drive me crazy.  Wood sliding boxes are tedious, but for some reason I have problems inletting brass ones.  Whenever I inlet the tang, the hinged door always pops up by itself.  The bloody thing should lie flat.  I've only done a couple of these and have just finished one for and 1803 Harpers Ferry.  Is it because I'm inletting the tang too deeply?  Is it the hinge depth?  Can I correct by deepening the edges of the cavity inlet?  I don't want to remove more wood unless I have to.  Maybe I should stick to fowlers. Tips needed.  Thanks.
Curt

[bob in the woods]

If you are speaking of the  cam type /spring  closures...the one where the cam keeps the lid closed ; I have always had trouble getting just the right amount of tension and a nice tight closure. I've had to adjust them to get them to work and , frankly , just don't use them any more. A nice push button type closure mechanism seems more appropriate to the styles of guns I make...or a sliding wood lid. 

[jamesthomas]

 Don't put one on!. Maybe I'm the only one, but I hate to see a patchbox on a grade 5, 6 or 7 maple stock  You have all this beautiful curl and folks ruin it by putting a patchbox on it.

[Acer Saccharum]

Whenever I inlet the tang, the hinged door always pops up by itself.

What do you mean by the tang? Catch hook on the lid, or the finial of the box?

[Curt Larsen]

Tom, the finial on the box.  I generally use three screws on the ones I put in.  Sorry about the terminology.

[Tom Currie]

I'd put some transfer color on the inside of the lid , close it and find out where its contacting wood that is creating the pressure on it. I'm a lipstick guy , can be a bit messy, but works well.

[Curt Larsen]

Thanks Tom, I'll try it. 

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

The only advice I have is the butt stock has to be straight front to rear over the length of the PB. Curved top to bottom, straight front to rear. (hope that makes sense) Then when you inlet the brass try not to remove more wood than the thickness of the brass. Use inlet black on the inside of the door and remove any spots, gradually the door will lay down. If it still springs a little (like just popping up) it will likely lay down after the cavity is cut. A good filing after the brass is inlet will even everything out.

The way I see it, there is no fast good way. Just take your time. I just spent approx. 16 hours inletting a 4 piece PB but it's setting in there good. Now more tedium building the latch.