Brass pan/plate on a lock?

[kaintuck]

is there a reason that brass plate and pan are offered on custom locks? or is it just cosmetics?
And, if D&T~ for the lock bolts....how strong is that for threads~

marc

[Kermit]

What you refer to as "brass" in these instances is bronze. It's much harder than that incredibly soft brass that comes mostly from Asia. I think marshmallows are part of the alloy.

I have one rifle with a small Siler with a bronze plate and have no worries. I have a M&G lock with a "brass" pan on another. In both cases I did it because I liked the appearance. If you check Jim Chambers' website you'll see they indicate bronze lockplates as an option. I also have a Chambers Queen Anne pistol flintlock lined up for a project.

If Jim sees this he can give an informed answer.

[bob in the woods]

My most used large Siler flint lock has a bronze plate.  I wanted to try it because : A] I like the look, especially when enhanced by engraving
B] Bronze is a slick bearing material, so I had hopes of a slightly faster lock. I really can't tell, but it is real fast..and very reliable. 

[DaveP (UK)]

Bronze is a slick bearing material

Excellent point! I had been thinking a bronze plate might look nice, but it wouldn't take the wear...
I knew better, but didn't make the connection 

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I just built a pistol with a  bronze plate and pan. I did it because I like the look. I'm building a rifle with bronze on the lock as well.

One caution if you like to tap somewhat firmly when inletting the lock, it can be bent somewhat. Not to difficult to re-straighten, just a caution.

[thecapgunkid]

I have a bronze plate on a rescue gun I am trying to re-build and Greg Dixon quickly identified it as a Haddaway from the 1960-70 era.  This gun was used and, as worn as the frizzen and internals are, the bronze is intact.  Greg also said that this model Haddaway also  farmed out some of its parts to Thompson Center, so I am lucking out when and if I have to replace the frizzen and flat spring.  The priming area still looks fresh also.  I judge you may not have to worry about wear in threads and such.

Don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

[James Wilson Everett]

Marc,

Go for the brass/bronze lock plate.  Iron plates are reserved for the riff-raff and low-lives of the world.  Here are a couple that I made.  I think the brass/bronze color really makes the gunlock look great.




Jim

[Roger B]

Doc Haddaway actually consulted with TC when they started to build their locks.  I didn't know there was any interchangeability.  Haddaway parts are few and far between.
Roger B.

[JCKelly]

I like brass/bronze/whatever for aesthetics.

Only thing this P.I.T.A. metallurgist would say, is that with brass it is proper to use a coarser, rather than finer, thread. As in the side nails. being the only threads you have a choice about.

Any of you old Mechanick types aware of this?

[Sawatis]

Marc,

Go for the brass/bronze lock plate.  Iron plates are reserved for the riff-raff and low-lives of the world.  Here are a couple that I made.  I think the brass/bronze color really makes the gunlock look great.





Jim

Hey Jim, are these scratch built?  Did you hack and file the pans from bar stock? Looks neat...been thinking of trying this sometime.
John

[Kermit]

Go directly to Jim Chambers and ask. Bronze plates are on option on many of their locks, and when I got mine, there was no big up charge for the change. Just ask. Some of the locks on his site, it tells you a bronze plate can be had. On one lock I asked, and got it, even though the website didn't mention it.

Really. Call and ask and get the straight story.

[Jim Chambers]

Actually, we can make any of our locks with brass/bronze plates and pans.  We have made several with steel plates and brass/bronze pans, another option.  We just don't always keep them in stock.  Often you will need to wait until we're making another batch of the lock you want to have a brass one made.  But, that usually doesn't take more than a few weeks.
So far, we cannot tell any difference in wear between the brass/bronze ones and the regular steel plates.

[James Wilson Everett]

John,

Yes, these are completely hand-built gunlocks, nothing purchased.  The pans are cut & filed from solid pieces, it does not take a very long time to do this.  Check out the process in the discussions "making a gunlock" and "scratch built locks".

Jim

[Habu]

Jim, do you happen to recall what alloy you used for the lockplates?  How are they holding up to wear?

[Kermit]

So far, we cannot tell any difference in wear between the brass/bronze ones and the regular steel plates.

[Habu]

So far, we cannot tell any difference in wear between the brass/bronze ones and the regular steel plates.

You're right Kermit, I should have specified which Jim I was directing that at!  Let me try again. . . .

Mr. Everett, do you happen to recall what alloy you used for the lockplates?  How are they holding up to wear?  

Thanks,
Jim

[James Wilson Everett]

Guys,

I believe the brass sheet I use is alloy 260 which I buy in 2' x2' sheets, 1/16 for thimbles & nosecaps, and 1/8 for buttplates, sideplates, and lockplates.  For the pans I use free machining yellow brass bar alloy 360, no noticeable color difference.  For barrels I use CDA alloy 936 bronze which is noticeably more red than brass.  All from McMaster-Carr.  I have not encountered any wear problem with brass as opposed to wrought iron, but modern steel may be better wearing than the original materials.  With a brass lockplate or a bronze barrel the metal will turn a rich and dark brown at the first shot, so to keep the brass bright & shining is a futile task.

Jim

[Sawatis]

Very Interesting!  Thanks Jim...Might have to give a brass lock a shot...so to speak!
John